Control surfaces

[Oceaneer99]

I've been adding the control surface outlines to my PRU Spitfire and usually find this process frustrating.  Here's how I do them usually:

I make the markings after painting with acrylics but before the coat of Future that I put on before the decals.  I cut templates out of index cards and clamp them to the wing using spring clamps.  Then I run a Pigma permanent pen where I want the control surface outlines to be.  If I make a mistake, I can wipe off the line while it is still wet, or use a white plastic drafting eraser to rub it out.  Even after they dry, it is possible to rub them out with the eraser.

Then I have to remember to put a thin protective coat of clear lacquer spray over them before I coat the entire model with Future (otherwise, the lines can smear a bit).

This process works, but it takes a very long time to dry, and it is easy to smudge the lines while they are wet.

I have tried or heard about a few other techniques in the past:

• decals
• carving the control surface lines
• a few members here use a woodburner before painting, which makes a slight indentation that shows up through the paint

For the propeller spinner separation on the Spitfire, I tried a dark pencil this time.  It is easy to correct mistakes and goes down on the matte paint quite nicely.  The graphite looks a bit too shiny, so I'll have to see if the overcoats change that.  Also, it's not black, just dark gray, which may or may not be a good thing.

Does anyone else have techniques that they use or prefer?

Garet

[lastvautour]

Taking the lazy man's way out I don't do control surfaces on the smaller scales. On larger I use a ball point pen to score the control surface outline but don't highlight them any further than that. My 1/32 scale Spitfire doesn't have any control surfaces outlined at all. Regardless, good luck on the Spitfire. Hope to see the finished product soon.

[Oceaneer99]

True, my 1/288 scale Heinkel had no control surface markings.  I scored the control surfaces of my 1/144 Spitfire before painting, and made no further changes to them.

The pencil lines looked flat (no longer shiny) after matte lacquer, though are definitely a shade or two lighter than black.  I just added a coat of future in preparation for decals, so I'll take a look again when that dries.

Garet

[JeffH]

The photo below shows how I use 3M Scotchcal pinstriping tape (available at automotive parts stores) to simulate control surface demarcations on model airplanes.  The tape comes in various widths-- mostly too wide for our use.  I apply the tape to a piece of glass and cut it into smaller width strips to apply to the model.  After applying the tape the model should be covered with a clear sealer (such as Future) to make sure the tape stays in place.

[JeffH]

Another method for marking control surfaces and panels as well as pin striping in general is to use a ruling pen (the style with the separate blades as used for inking drawings in pre-Autocad days). 

Instead of ink, I use a concoction of acrylic craft paint, Future floor polish and flow enhancer.  The ratio is approximately 5 drops paint to 2 drops Future and one drop of flow enhancer.  Straight from the bottle, the paint is too stiff to flow easily so needs to be thinned.
I made a tongue to insert between the blades of the ruling pen; this is shown in the inset photo.  That idea comes from an article I found in an old magazine.  The metal peice is supposed to help prevent the paint from running out too quickly.  When the paint is thinned properly, it's easy to make stripes using this tool.

I've found the straight-edge used for this method needs to be raised slightly from the surface, otherwise the paint wants to seep underneath and smear.  A piece of sheet plastic with part of a rubber inner tube glued to it works well.

I've also used mapping pens (the kind with the separate nib as seen in the photo) for painting stripes on models using the same paint concoction described above.  That's what I used to fake in some panel lines on the model in the example photo.  Although the lines in the photo look a bit rough, it is possible to create very crisp lines by this method.  A large number of different nibs are available and it's worthwhile to experiment to see which ones provide the best results.

[Oceaneer99]

Jeff,

Thank you for the tips and the tutorial photos.  I tried a metal-nib pen when I painted the canopy frames on my teeny-tiny Heinkel.  I didn't have flow enhancer at the time, which would have helped a lot.  I have since used flow enhancer when brushing acrylics (haven't needed it for Model Master acrylics, though), and have been very impressed at how much it helps.

Garet

[JeffH]

Another approach may be to use an engraver bit in a rotary tool as seen in the attached photo.  The lines in the photo look a little rough, but I believe with practice a really straight line could be created using this method.  An improvement may be to try gluing a section of flat rubber band to the bottom of the straight edge-- this would raise it slightly to provide more room for the cutting tool and help the straight edge grip the surface better.  A length of brass bar stock with a rubber band section glued to the bottom may make a better straight edge than the popsicle stick shown in the photo.

The engraving bit cuts extremely quickly (especially when fresh from the package) making this method unforgiving-- one slip and you'll have an unwanted trench to fill on the model!

[lastvautour]

Thanks Jeff, I will attempt this using a guide bar. But first I will practice on scarp and let you know.

Lou