Measuring Gauge

[Model Maker]

I am getting ready to paint the last of my P-51D's. Thought I'd try a new DIY tool to aid in measuring the depth of the checkers at the propeller end of the fuselage. Last time I used a digital vernier but was always worried it may damage the underlying finish. I've also used the vernier for other markings during construction but find it a little bulky at times.

While surfing a while ago, I can across DIY marking gauges for woodworking. These are a little massive for my liking when working on 1/32 scale models. But thought the idea was good since they are all wood. So I scaled down the concept. Bought a 6" stainless ruler that is only 1/2" wide at the local Home Depot and then opted to make a 6-1/2" long x 3/16" thick beam and a 1" x 2" x 3/8" head. I made the beam about 1/16" wider than the ruler so there would not be any sharp edges to cut me or the model. The clamping force is provided by a brass bolt which was epoxied into a knurled knob again purchased from the big box store. The softer brass doesn't seem to mark the stainless steel ruler, so I'll go with the bolt clamping directly onto the ruler rather than adding a small piece of rubber on the end of the bolt.

I didn't put together any plans as they are dependent on the size of ruler used. Most of the gauges on the internet show the beam being recessed into the upper half of the body. Since I was trying to make this on the small side, I opted for the beam to be embedded equally on the upper and lower half.

Photo 1 shows the the hardwood beam and a  groove cut in a piece of 3/16" thick hardwood.  The width of the piece is slightly wider than twice the head width (ie greater than 2" in my case) so you can fold one piece on top of the other. Make sure the groove is tight with the beam. You can always sand the side of the beam a little if required.

Photo 2 shows the beam embedded in the groove. There are many ways to cut the groove. I used a razor saw and chisel.

Photo 3 shows the ruler glued to the beam with epoxy, the bolt and knurled knob glued together with epoxy and the upper and lower halves glued together with the clamping nut epoxied into the top half.

Photo 4 shows the assembled gauge. It's surprisingly light and much easier to maneuver than the larger vernier.

[lastvautour]

Thank you for the post.

Lou

[Gearup]

Always good to see shop-made tools.
Thanks
Fraser