so how do I...

[Beazld]

Well, I am a noobie and I have some questions and I am not sure if this is the right place to post or not so if it needs to be moved let me know.  I am starting to cut the pieces for the Boeing China Clipper out of basswood.  'I am starting simple with the tail feathers and am about to tackle the fuse and wings.  My first question is how to maintain center and reference lines on the fuse?  I can lay out the templates on the block and cut away but how do you experts maintain reverence lines as you are carving?  Especially on the fuse as it doesn't have any square or flat surfaces.  I thought about gluing two blocks together and use the joint as a center line but it seems like I will be wasting a lot of wood. (not that it matters too much, it does grow on trees after all )  The other question I have is what is the best way to mount the engine cowls?  the plans show to relieve the cowl to match the airfoil, but some pix I have seen of other peoples builds show cutting the wing to match the cowl.  What is the preferred method or am I over thinking all this?
Dave

[Kenny Horne]

Hi Dave. I'll give you my two cents for what it's worth. I love the two block method so much that I either colour the glue or the inside of the blocks so that line is viewable. I'm obsessed with that line   
As for the engines use whichever method looks easier for the task. One thing I like doing is splitting the block at any perfectly round cross section. Eg for the Lancaster I added the spinners on after carving the rest. It's hard to carve perfect circles when the are part of a complex shape and imperfect circles are very obvious...

Keep asking questions

Kenny

[lastvautour]

I also prefer to use the spit block on bigger models. Smaller one can be done by carving the block shape which has just side and top cuts and no contours. See this thread in group builds.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=234.0

Lou

[Model Maker]

Hi Dave:

I guess I go against the grain in that I try not to glue blocks together for the main fuselage section unless the size absolutely warrants it. I've attached a some pictures below of a Halifax which I am just starting. The key item for me is to establish the reference points at both ends of the fuselage. After that, it's just a matter of drawing and redrawing the reference lines. The key for me is to always retain the vertical and horizontal reference points at both ends of the fuselage and any points where the horizontal  reference line changes direction. The location of the vertical line is usually just connecting the two mid points at each end of the fuselage. The horizontal point locations are transferred from the plan to the cut out using the remaining cutout lines. As always double and tripple check the dimensions. That is why I like the vernier (or compass) and square as I can lock the dimensions on the plan and easily transfer to the cut out.

I always create my carvings with a tang at the nose end. This allows me to clamp while carving and provides a set of reference points at the nose which do not disappear until the carving, assembly and finishing are almost completed. The reference lines at the end of the tail typically aren't removed until the final sanding.  I also use a red pencil to mark the reference lines and touch them up if they are removed during the carving process. I've found a flexible plastic ruler to be invaluable for following the contour of the fuselage when creating and touching up the reference lines.

The first picture shows the plans with the reference lines indicated. The Halifax is similar to your clipper in that the horizontal reference line will change direction at some point along the fuselage.

The second picture shows red markings of the reference points at both ends of the fuselage and  the cross in the middle of the fuselage where the horizontal reference line changes directions. I've also captured the tools I use for transferring the locations of the reference line end points from the plans to the fuselage cut out. If you don't have a vernier, a compass which can be locked can also be used.

The third picture shows the reference points at the tail end of the fuselage.

The fourth picture shows how a piece of sewing thread can be stretched between the end reference lines if the fuselage is longer than the flexible ruler. It's a similar concept to a carpentry snap line, Just a little thinner. Once the sewing line is taught make some markings underneath the line and join these points with the ruler to create a continuous reference line. You can see how this all comes together (reference lines and station lines) in the link below.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=1326.0


Hope this may be of some assistance - ken

[Pete1616]

Not much I could add after Ken's excellent description. All I can  have to offer is what my old carving instructor told me about 25 years ago....always keep your centre line! if you carve or sand part of it off, pencil it in. Some lessons seem to stick.....Pete

[Beazld]

Thanks guys for the replies, lots of great info here.  Looks like I will be doing a hybrid of the above techniques. I laminated two blocks together to maintain a center line and will be leaving a tang at the nose of the fuse for holding while shaping.  I added a few drops of ink in the Titebond glue to add some color so the glue line will be more visible. We'll see how that works. I'll powt som pics once the chips start to fly.  Stay tuned.