Tutorial Novice - Handley Page Hampden - A guide to WWII ID Models

[lastvautour]

Next apply lines as shown.

Photo 1
Line 1 is approx 4mm lower than the first edge line and it lines up with the lower corner of the windscreen,
Line 2 is the original line
Line 3 is half way between the two original lines we used to carve out the corner of the fuselage
Line 4 is the original line we placed on top;  and
Line 5 is half way between the fuselage center and line 4

Photo 2
Repeat the process for the other side.

Photo 3
Remove the shallow triangles formed between 2 and 3 and the triangle formed between 3 and 5.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Using medium or coarse sandpaper, round off the forward fuselage section.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Mark the fuselage down to the front edge of the gun turret and remove the various triangles to shape the fuselage. Note that I have replaced the forward windscreen lines. (important)

Lou

[lastvautour]

Now remove the section of wood between the top and lower forward cockpit frame. Do not delete remove any wood beyond the vertical windscreen frame we mark in the previous post. The last photo shows what some sandpaper will do to shape the winscreen areas. Replace the cockpit frame lines as you go.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Moving to the bombardier's aiming window, slowly shape the corners down sand sand to shape. Be careful not to sand into the round window area.

Lou

[lastvautour]

The top rear gun turret is done in the same fashion as the fuselage with marking, cutting, marking and cutting followed by sanding. Remark all turret lines.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Let's do an update. We have the fuselage, tail assembly, nacelles and wing just about ready for some serious gluing, but not yet. More to come later.

Lou

[Peter]

Hi Lou,

I have had a really crazy week but have managed to get some work done. The nacelles have been cut and sanded although they need a bit more. After studying your photos and some photos of the actual plane. I removed more wood and re-sanded the fuselage although it to requires some more sanding.

Peter

[Peter]

also a front view

[lastvautour]

That is awesome Peter. You are doing very well on this Hampden.
We are on the same page.


Lou

[lastvautour]

Now for some fun. The lines for the dihedral breaks are the dotted lines between the flap and aileron joint.  I used my fret saw to make the cuts to the wing because the blade is fairly wide. The object of the game is not to cut through the wing but to leave some materiel for structural strength. Gently bend the wing up until you get 3/8 in deflection at the tip. I put the wing flat and used a 3/8 block to attain the correct dihedral. If you should be lucky enough not to break the joint, use white glue and fill the seam completely and let dry at least 24 hours. then do the other side.

Lou

If you are like me, the next three post will sort out our clumsiness.

[lastvautour]

Another method for attaining dihedral is to cut through the wing after having made a line 90 degrees to the cut line. This will help to align the wing properly. Next line up the lines and cut into the wing with the fretsaw. Be careful that the parts do not move or the alignment may be off.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Make a couple of thin pieces of wood to act as spar between the wing and the elevated portion. Insert dry and test fit a few times. If it is lines up glue it all with white glue and let dry 24 hours. Make sure the leading and trailing edges are aligned.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Use the 3/8 inch block to prop things up. Place heavy object on top to eliminate the glue moving the wood during the drying process. In a few days when all is dry, you will have perfect dihedral breaks. Later will add a bit of filler/putty and a bit of sanding.

Lou

PS those pegs on top of the wings are round toothpicks I use to secure the nacelles during construction.

[Peter]

Okay Lou the cuts are made and the wing is glued and drying.

Peter