Tutorial Novice - Handley Page Hampden - A guide to WWII ID Models

[lastvautour]

And one more photo to place the exhaust pipe in relation to the cowl center line.

Lou

[lastvautour]

The radio antenna mast is a toothpick cut to size with the end notched to fit a round pin hole. Sand to a point but not too much as an actual scale antenna mast/post would not hold up to much handling. Look at the aircraft you wish to represent and cut down accordingly as with all things, there were some changes.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Locate the area where the antenna mast will be perched and drill or make a hole with a pointy object. Insert the antenna mast and wait until all is painted before you glue it. Many different antennae masts can be seen on various aircraft including the football fairing ones. Mine will stay with just the radio antenna mast.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Getting close to the end now. But that is all to tonight. Have a good one and see you all tomorrow.

Lou

[Peter]

Hi Lou,

Sorry I haven't posted an update but my schedule has been crazier than usual. I need to do a lot more sanding and possibly add more wood filler. Here a couple of updated photos.

Peter

[Balsabasher]

Well done with the excellent progress Peter.
Barry.

[lastvautour]

You are doing a fantastic job Peter. Did you hollow out your engine cowls or is it just an optical illusion?

Lou

[lastvautour]

I have not figured out how to add comments to a still photo display, but I am learning. The photos show the process of making a spinner. I first mark the center of the dowel, mark the length of the spinner and then remove half the material. I then mark the half way point and remove the forward portion bringing the forward end to a rounded point. Then using fine sandpaper, round things off. To remove the spinner from the dowel I have a small video. I have tried saws and cutting directly through but mostly wind up chipping the edges of the spinner. This is the best way for me to do spinners. As per the plan instruction you may glue these in place and the build is complete as per the plans.


Lou

[lastvautour]

The only thing remaining is for sealing, priming and sanding. I use a home made sealer of Future Acrylic Wax and Johnson's Baby Power which is talcum powder. The mix is a mildly thick paste that is applied with a brush. It fills in the small scratches and dents. It is then sanded down with fine sandpaper and primer is applied. A sanding using fine paper is done and that will show the highs and low portion of the surface. Some putty may be used in deep dents and others can just be sand out. I recommend a sanding block or at least folded over paper other wise softer portions of the wood will be worn away quicker and create more dents. Once sanded, prime again, sand and prime until you are satisfied with the finish. This is the messy and long process so patience is definitely a virtue at this point. This process will enhance the final look of your model. WWII ID models are painted black so this is your choice.

Lou

The next few posts will describe the WWII DI + features.

[lastvautour]

Priming.

[lastvautour]

That with exception of painting the model black, this concludes the WWII ID HP Hampden.

Lou

[lastvautour]

Addition steps to attain a WWII ID + Hampden will include:

Making prop disc - http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=753.msg6030#msg6030

Misc - upper and bottom rear fuselage details - Guns - marking cockpit/turret glass

Mounting - http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=1154.msg11530#msg11530

Painting Camouflage scheme - http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=81.msg324#msg324

Markings - http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=870.msg7633#msg7633

             - http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=725.msg5690#msg5690



Lou

[lastvautour]

Making the prop disc is shown in the Tip and Technique section of the site at http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?action=collapse;c=7;sa=collapse;sesc=b59cfcff565da0dddfdc3ae0f2d2bd39#7
An additional view of prop discs are in Ken's project board. Check out his B-25 at http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=730.msg5716#msg5716

The engine detail, is just a photo of a generic radial engine printed on ordinary paper and held in place with white glue. In this case, the engine photo will be removed for painting and new one made and applied after everything else is done.

Lou

[lastvautour]

At this point one can glue the prop hub/spinner directly on to the disc or a round toothpick/dowel can be affixed to the rear of the hub so that the discs are removable for transport or storage.  A corresponding hole must be drilled in the engine cowl. I recommend painting the hub/spinner prior to attaching to the model.

Lou

[lastvautour]

The Hampden has a upper rear fuselage longeron. This is not shown in the plan, however it is a prominent feature I felt I needed . A small bamboo dowel was used and sanded to 1/2 round shape and glued in position. As a suggestion, BBQ skewers are made of bamboo and the grain is very straight. Experimenting will result in a workable solution. The enclosed profile illustrates the location of the longeron and the bottom antenna. The antenna is round bamboo the same size as the upper 1/2 round stock and is held in place with small blocks approx. 1.5mm high and 1 mm wide and 2.5mm long. A profile is provided at

http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/1271/pics/9_1.jpg

Lou