1/72 S.E.5a

[Mark Braunlich]

Cliff,
As mentioned in my first post on this thread, this model will go atop a trophy for a flying model contest, at least that's the plan now.  It's perfect size for that and I'm not doing a lot of detail, none in the cockpit, no wing ribs or rigging.  It's just an old-school solid, probably the way I like them most.

[Peter]

I think old school solids are definately more attractive for beginners. I also like the look of them. They have that kind of folk art look about them.

Peter

[cliff strachan]

Mark, I'm also of the opinion that the purpose defines the scale. In this regard your aim is perfectly compatible with the scale you have chosen - or has been dictated to you by old-school circumstances. Hopefully you may describe to me exactly what "old-school solid" means. I'm obviousy at a loss here.

Cliff.

[Peter]

Well I can't speak for Mark but to me an "old school solid" is capturing the spirit of the original solid model kits built during 1920s, 30s or 40s. It wasn't about building an extremely accurate scale model. It was about building something that looked cool and captured your imagination. Every time I build a model even now whether its solid, card or plastic. I still take it for a test flight around the room when it's done. Usually involving a barrel roll, complete with sound effects. Uh.... just don't tell me wife and kids they already think I'm nuts!

Peter

[Mark Braunlich]

Not sure I can put into words what "old school" means to me.  I just know it when I see it.  As Peter says (very well BTW), it's not a lot of detail but somehow the model captures the subject's character and you know it wasn't made without a lot of skill and care.   Best I can do.  Great examples of "old school" for me are the many models of the Eugene Kettering collection that were (are?) on display at the USAF Museum in Dayton.

[Mark Braunlich]

Here's the underside with the fuselage restored beneath the wing using a 9mm square of basswood and some filler.  My putty filler of choice is now DAP Plastic Wood which is REALLY old school.  You can find adverts for it in 1940s modeling magazines.   Sets up really quickly and doesn't seem to shrink as much as Green Stuff.

[Mark Braunlich]

Upper wing taking shape.  Dihedral steamed in here....MUCH better way to go.

Welcome back Barry!

[Balsabasher]

A lovely model Mark that really captures the feel of what these old early solid models were about,the amount of detail is just right in my opinion and the SE5A never fails to make into a most attractive subject,your ongoing build shots further enhance your subject matter and will certainly assist others in the future,well done in producing such a fine miniature that has lots of appeal.
Barry.

[Mark Braunlich]

Upper wing finished. 

Silver soldering up the u/c struts from brass strip.

[Mark Braunlich]

Completed undercarriage struts from .016" brass.

[Peter]

Very nice Mark. I need to solder at some point

Peter

[lastvautour]

Soldering is one skill I never mastered. You on the other hand seem to have mastered it. Do you make house calls?

Lou

[Mark Braunlich]

Soldering is one skill I never mastered. You on the other hand seem to have mastered it. Do you make house calls?

Lou

I'm not a master at all.  Masters soldering leaves the joint with almost no solder visible.  I have been doing it since I was a kid, making undercarriages, fuel tanks, control lines, prop hub/shaft assemblies for flying models, the latter for rubber powered models.  100% self taught.

[Mark Braunlich]

One thing I wanted to try with this model was the use of fibreboard to make the vertical tail.  I once worked in the air tool industry and the blades of the air motors were made of this material; then it was linen fabric impregnated with phenolic resin.  It may be the same today or the fabric may be some synthetic.   Of course it is the material that Skybirds used for their tail surfaces in their later models.    

It's fantastically tough stuff and difficult to cut with a knife....I resorted to a saw and files.  The material here is .032" thick and I purchased it through the American mail order hardware firm McMaster-Carr.  Paid about $6 for a square foot.   It's available in many grades and thicknesses.  Many of the early great solid modelers used it.  The late great George Cox even made wings for his fantastic 1/48 solids from fibreboard.

The last photo shows the parts roughly shaped.....more finishing needed.

[Peter]

Very interesting Mark keep the photos coming!

Peter