Fleet Scratchbuild

Ken Pugh · April 26, 2008, 11:39:28 PM

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-914

I made a temporary jig on my building board to get the bottom wing lined up. The wings are shaped from solid wood then a rat tail file was used to cut the scallop between the ribs. In reality, the fabric of a wing is rarely this scalloped. Now I make a solid wing, then lay on strips of cardstock for the ribs then cover with tissue/silkspan. Look at my Sopwith Pup in my gallery to see the results of this technique.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-345

Looks more to scale.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-922

I use the plastic they use instead of boxes today for the windscreens. Make a template from cardstock and, after everything is the proper shape and fit, use the template to cut the windscreen from plastic. This clear plastic is the only plastic I use in models. Plastic decays over time so I stick with wood. I know some of you guys swear that plastic is not a problem to use, but the guidelines for models for the Naval Academy forbids plastic except the clear needed for windows. I'll stick with what they say because they have the research to back it up. Of all the plastics you can use, styrene is especially bad. I just don't like it. Paper is better than plastic to me. I can seal it with sealer or CA glue and it works fine.
The strut attachment points are cut into the fuselage. The side view of the plan is used to locate them and their alignment viewed from top I just eye-balled.

Ken Pugh · April 26, 2008, 11:41:25 PM

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-921

All the struts are bamboo. Strong stuff that doesn't warp. The red stripes on the tail are from some rub-on decals I have. I won't use them again because they are just too delicate. I'd rather take the time to mask out and paint. I pain, but worth it.

Ken Pugh · April 26, 2008, 11:48:14 PM

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-920

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-919

All done. On the bottom view, notice that you can get some silvering between the letters caused by the tissue not sticking completely. This is easily removed with the wing paint. You can also get rid of any ink bleed this way. Again, paint-by-numbers.

On this and the Sopwith Pup, I've used music wire for all the rigging wires. I don't like using any flexible because it is tough to get tight. With nice, hard, music wire, everything is straight. My local Ace Hardware store sells it. I must be the only person buying it because they asked me what I did with it and were surprised when I told them. When I am wandering around that store they like to find out what strange use I will have for what I find. I love small, husband and wife stores.

There it is, my first scratchbuild. It was a lot of fun and a great learning experience. I no longer have a desire to build plastic kits (puzzles) thanks to Gera's teaching. Once he got me over the initial hurdle, I'm off on my own, developing my techniques as I go. What a great way to build models. Cheap, too!

lastvautour · April 27, 2008, 12:30:30 AM

Awesome build. Thanks for sharing. I most try the tissue over cardstock for rib details because i can't seem to do well in that area.

Ken Pugh · April 27, 2008, 01:29:05 PM

I'll look through my Pup build pics and write up something in one of the techniques sections. It all depends on what one's perception of how a canvas and rib wing looks. When I looked at a real plane at an airshow, it dawned on me that the ribs were close enough that there was not heavy scalloping of the fabric, which makes sense. The structure has to be strong and must efficiently produce lift. After all, it's not an RC or rubber airplane.

But, that's just like panel line detail with plastic modelers. Those guys go crazy with deep grooves and heavy paint to accentuate the unrealistic grooves. Looks kind of stupid to me but I build for me, not for them. I also don't get too excited about including every decal and marking on a plane. You can't see the ground crew information unless you are standing up against the thing. When it pops up in a picture in flight or on the ground, then I'll worry about showing it on the model.

I'll put something in the Detailing section when I gather the pics.

Ken Pugh

cliff strachan · April 28, 2008, 07:29:52 PM

Very nice job, Ken.
I still feel that there's an infinite number of problems involved when making models of older fabric covered aircraft. I'm sure your techniques will be of value. Look forward to being able to check them out.

Cliff.

lastvautour · April 29, 2008, 12:10:57 PM

I am trying out your rib/fabric using two layers of masking tape, tissue and puzzle glue as I don't have any dope. I have used dope on many flying models long ago but have not tried lately. I will post my results hopefully by week's end. The good weather is causing work slowdowns in my shipyard and airplane factory.

Ken Pugh · April 29, 2008, 05:05:14 PM

I made a topic in the Detailing section, called Canvas wings, to show the technique used on the Pup. The Fleet wings were the traditional filed in grooves, but my Pup is the new technique.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=141.0

Ken Pugh

Cipkew · July 23, 2009, 02:30:06 AM

Seems like we north east fleet are the most active on this forum. Any idea about this facebook group, when its being created or anything?

R.F.Bennett · July 23, 2009, 03:15:24 PM

We have no plans for a Facebook Group.

lastvautour · July 23, 2009, 03:54:51 PM

Kipcew, I think what Ken was referring to is a yahoo group that focused on scratchbuilding. Except for my posting pictures, it is pretty quiet these days but has some tutorial type post. You must join it, but it is easy to do and cost nothing. Here is the web address.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Learning-to-scratch-build-models/

Lou

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