Fleet Scratchbuild

[Ken Pugh]

There were a couple of questions about some of the techniques used on this model so I decided to do a walkthrough of the build.  Be warned, this is not a solid model.  If you don't like "hollow" models, please hide your eyes.  Some of the techniques can be used on pure solid models.

This was my first attempt at scratchbuilding.  Gera Godoy had a forum for this type of model and ran a tutorial which I participated in.  I was hooked and haven't look back.

For beginners, I can't stress enough just doing it.  Don't jump on something difficult.  Build something simple and finish it.  You can finish it quickly and build something else.  Build through several models quickly and apply lessons learned from the previous build.  You will find that scratchbuilding is easy and fun.  You will develop the techniques that suit you and can then tackle longer projects without giving up on them.

Ken Pugh

[lastvautour]

Ken, how did you get from the toothpick to the completed cylinder on your engine? I keep away from exposed engines due to an inability to make them look good.

[R.F.Bennett]

Even though your Fleet is hollow Ken, We do consider it a Solid because it was carved from solid wood. Hollowed out cabins and passenger compartments etc... are considered advanced techniques and looked forward too. No worries. . . 

[Ken Pugh]

Posting has been delayed due to my disability acting up worse than usual.  I will cover some of the techniques of the Fleet instead of a full build log.  Again, this is not a solid model because it was built as a box of balsa, a wood I'll never use again, if possible.  Everything that went outside of the box pertains to solid modelers.

Again, this was my first scratchbuild under the tutelage of Gera.  Lots of lessons learned on this one as on all of them.



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This first pic shows the simulation of the fuselage stringers.  I used the ever faithful bamboo pulled through the lousy drawplate I have.  Can't wait to get a good one.  It helps to sand down the back of the stringers for a better glue joint.

Note the use of a push pin to hold onto this thing.

[Ken Pugh]

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This pic shows the fuselage detail well.  The metal cockpit covering is made from 3x5 card.  The turtledeck stringers are metal wire.  This wire looks like it was meant for magnet or transformer use because it has no insulation but it does have a coating.  Keep fiddling with it using needle nose pliers and you'll eventually get it straight enough to use.

The side bamboo stringers have been sanded down some.  The whole fuselage has wood sealer applied.  I use the stuff from Minwax.

[Ken Pugh]

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Nothing simulates fabric coverings better than fabric.  I used techniques borrowed from the free-flight rubber guys.  The tissue is left over from a Guillow's kit.  I've tried the stuff for wrapping you can get cheap, but it dissolves in water, which just will not work.  Too bad, that stuff is cheap and plentiful.  I also have some silkspan but I save it for the good models.  That stuff is great wet and forms around curves well.  I also use it to make sails for my boat models.  Anyways, the tissue is applied with glue stick.  I use the purple stuff to see where the glue is.  This stuff dries clear.   The body has a coat of primer applied.  I used some stuff I got from Model Expo.  Their paint is thick as mud because it is meant to thin as the application requires.  There paint goes a long ways.  When brushed, I use it pretty thick.

[Ken Pugh]

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The fuselage is covered and the tissue needs to be sealed.  I, again, use the Minwax Sanding Sealer.  Sanding sealer is really cheap stuff, especially compared to polyurethane.  It seals the tissue well, but is too heavy for flying.  The free-flight guys seal the tissue with Krylon Crystal Clear in a spray can.  It is an acrylic and does not dry to a water-proof finish, so the free-flight guys try not to fly in damp conditions with that stuff.

[Ken Pugh]

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After a coat of primer, you see the fabric finish comes out well.

[Ken Pugh]

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The nose block is on and shaped.  I used spackle for filler, which I will no longer use.  There is too much water in spackle and it will warp wood that is not sealed well.  That will not happen on such a small model, but it was a big problem with the monster Hellcat I'm working on.

The headrest is a block of wood glued to the turtledeck.  Notice that it is clamped down with a brash nail.  This was later removed after the glue dried.  You cabinet makers know all about using nails as clamps while glue dries.  The model ship guys use these small brass brads that are usually left over from one of their kits.  They are removed after the glue dries and the hole filled.  I sometimes forget this method of making parts.  It is usually easier to glue on wood and shape, rather than shape a tiny part then glue on.  It is also easier to make small parts while still connected to the piece of wood instead of cutting of the proper size piece and trying to hold that stupid thing while you are working on it.

[Ken Pugh]

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OK, Lou, engine time!  I find the hardest part of radial or rotary engines is the spacing.  The cylinders are usually odd in number and a pain to plot out properly.  In this case I first drew in the line showing their alignment on the nose.  As there are only five cylinders, I just used the front view of the plans to get their spacing.  I punched holes with a sharp object and used toothpicks in the holes to check alignment.  Just poke a little at a time, that way you can adjust the angle as you go deeper.

[Ken Pugh]

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The holes are aligned so now it is time for the cylinders.  The previous toothpicks were square and these are round.  I cut them down to get rid of the tapered part of the toothpick and glued them in place.  I used this glue because it is tinted and I hate using it.  Since it is getting painted, it's tint is not an issue.

[Ken Pugh]

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The cooling ribs are made with the same insulation free wire.  If you don't have any, just strip off the insulation of regular solid core wire.  Wrap it around and glue in place.  The pushrods are made from wire that is insulated.  It's the stuff used for wire-wrapping.  Again, solid core will work just fine.  The main thing here is that it is thicker than the rib wire.  The heads are made from wood.  Glue on a block then shape.

[Ken Pugh]

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One each engine.  Acrylic paint does not stick too well to metal so get it covered then apply some kind of clear finish to protect it.  If you use aluminum wire, the paint rubbing off looks good.  Otherwise, you might like to dry-brush with some metallic paint to give it the metal look, even though the real thing, hopefully, does not have paint flaking off it.  At this small scale, you don't need much detail.  The bigger it is, the more you need to put on it.

[Ken Pugh]

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Time for the markings.  This is covered in the Markings and Decals section under the Tissue Decal topic.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=105.0

Basically, the markings are printed on tissue paper, the same stuff for rubber airplanes.  Practice on paper until all is well, then use glue stick to attach tissue, at the edges, to a paper carrier.



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Since you can't print white on tissue, just paint a white background.  The decals are applied with glue stick.  They are not always opaque, but that is not a problem.  Using the decal as a guide, you can paint in the detail, kind of like paint-by-numbers.  Markings are tough to paint free-hand but are much easier if you have it layed out already.

[Ken Pugh]

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The struts are made from bamboo.  Just sand those skewers that are nice and cheap to get the proper cross-section.  Scrap wire is used for the cross struts and the tail skid.

The fuselage has been painted with acrylic paints and the fabric detail is still visible.