Continuation of the P-40 Group Build

[lastvautour]

In searching about I found a couple of additional P-40s. Also corrections are needed in the above collage. The P-40 profile model belongs to Kenny H and Ryan's model is 1/72 scale.

Lou

[Oceaneer99]

Nice P-40 poster, Lou! That model was the first solid I build, and in researching how to paint it, I discovered Ray's SMM site.

Garet

[Jim]

Don't forget Fingers! The ID P-40 was one of the first solids I ever built.

[lastvautour]

Very nice fingers. This is the my first time seeing this gorgeous model. I can't find any details posted. Please describe details of this project.

Lou

[Jim]

Oh, my. That was several years ago. I think it might have been only the second solid model I ever attempted, the Spitfire being the first. I'd seen that by-now-familiar picture of the "sandwich" Typhoon and thought, "I ought to try that". So I did. I guess it was what you'd call a "qualified success". The woods used were sheet basswood, walnut and mahogany, laminated together, and some scraps of ebony turned on the Dremel for wheels (see photo).  Everything carved up nicely, but I also learned the value of ensuring that you spread the glue thoroughly and not leave any voids between layers. Notice that I failed to do so on the starboard wing, which made the basswood patch come out "fuzzy" around the edges. Live and learn...The stand I made for it was awful and was subsequently scrapped and replaced.

[jimmyd]

Hi, I'd like to build your P-40. I have the ID plans from WW2.
This will be my 2nd carved airplane.
Jimmy D [Canada]

[lastvautour]

Jimmy, firstly, welcome and second please post a photo of your first build.

Fingers, looks like you need to do a tutorial.

Lou

[Model Maker]

Laying the different woods certainly takes things to the next level of craftsmanship. I'd certainly enjoy a tutorial if Fingers or another Member would like to show us how it is accomplished and the process for selecting and layering the woods.

Amazing work!! - ken

[Jim]

"looks like you need to do a tutorial."

I guess I could do something along those lines. It'd have to be pretty simple, though; I've got a lot of things on my plate just now, so I don't really have the time to do a new P-40 "build", with lots of photos and all... However, I do have some pix I took of the B-24 and especially the PBY under construction, which might prove useful to somebody who's just coming to this topic. I could add some comments about doing the different laminations, and they might provide the basis for some interesting discussion.

Would you want to do that as a continuation of this thread, here? Or take it someplace else?

[lastvautour]

If you will send me your photo I will see what I can whip up, however my workshop is half way through a move with no end in clear sight. Perhaps a few words on how you laminate the wood will suffice for now and once I have my things in order I will make a tutorial.

Lou

[Jim]

Well, the lamination process is no great mystery. What I try to do is create a contrast wherever possible: I cut same-size pieces of wood in different thicknesses, stack them together either horizontally or vertically, depending upon what I think works best, then arrange and rearrange the layers in various combinations until I get the kind of effect I'm looking for.

Midwest Products (http://midwestproducts.com/collections/hardwoods) sells a variety of hardwoods in thicknesses ranging from 1/16" to 1/4". I mostly use basswood, walnut, mahogany and cherry, although they offer other kinds (yellowheart, purpleheart, zebrawood, etc.) as well.

For fuselages on large aeroplanes, like the B-24, I like to stack them horizontally, like this (See "B-24D Block")


That way, when you cut out the shape, you get a kind of sense of horizontal motion...(See: "First sanding")

This can be enhanced by positioning your thicker layers toward the bottom, and thinner layers at the top. Notice also that each layer is partitioned by a very thin layer (1/16" in this case) of contrasting tone...the lightest light offsetting the darkest dark. In school they taught us that painters and artists call this "chiaroscuro"...

[Jim]

In fighter planes like the P-40 and aircraft with long, thin fuselages, I'll often stack the layers vertically. This enhances the rakish lines of the plane's fuselage, and when you sand it down to a tapered end, it also creates some interesting  "sandwich slices" along the sides...It also looks cool viewed from dead ahead...

[Jim]

Wings are usually pretty much the same:  a three-piece sandwich. Sometimes with light-colored tops and bottoms (basswood) around a dark middle slice of walnut. Sometimes the top and bottom are thinner slices and the center slice slightly thicker, so when you sand the edges rounded at the front and thin at the trailing edge, you can get a nice broad dark border edge all the way 'round...

With the Corsair, however, I had a special piece of maple with a dark streak through it that I wanted to use on the top of the wing. I laminated a sheet of slightly darker cherry to the bottom for contrast...

[Jim]

And with the Sikorsky, I happened to have a special piece of walnut with a beautiful light-colored edge, which cried out to be used as a wing...

I laminated the fuselage with  two thick walnut center layers composed 1/4" walnut bands, offset by thinner basswood layers, and an extra dark walnut bottom layer. This enhanced the boat-like shape of the hull. The top of the fuselage has a thin layer of mahogany or cherry between basswood strips, suggesting a canopy-like shape.

[Jim]

Lastly, a word on laminating. I just glue all the pieces together, clamp be-jeezis out of it and let it dry. Kinda like this:

BUT...as I learned from the P-40, you have to use a straight-edge spreader and spread the glue thoroughly across the entire surface, being sure NOT to leave any voids in the glue. This is very important, because anyplace there's an open pocket or void in the glue will result in a spot where the two pieces of wood aren't bonded together. And if it should happen that you cut and sand down through that void, you'll wind up with a nasty looking little spot where the surface isn't uniform, like this (notice the right wing surface?)...

So, how'd I do, Lou?