Strombecker Thunderstreak

Paul · February 02, 2010, 07:31:19 PM

Hi Cliff, I've never had a problem with Tamiya spray paint lifting or rubbing off. I usually let the paint cure over-night before puttting any tape on it. I also use low-tack tape for masking. Tamiya makes its own brand of tape that is very good. It is not very sticky but it does cut and burnish down well at the edges and can be stretched a little bit to get it straight on compound curves. I've also used blue painter's tape from 3M, its not quite as nice but it is a lot cheaper and can be found in hardware stores. You can make it less sticky by applying it first to the palm of your hand a couple of times to get some of the glue off.

cliff strachan · February 03, 2010, 01:31:44 AM

Thanks Paul,
I've been trying Testor's Enamel airbrushed but have been advised to clear coat over top. However NOT just to apply any Gloss clear top coat but either Dullcoate #1160,1260 or Glosscoate #1161 or 1261. So far I've used only a Flat clear coat on the botom of one but it has come out looking too "steel". Is Tamiya's enamel or acrlic?

Cliff

Paul · February 03, 2010, 02:13:50 PM

The Tamiya spray cans smell like they are laquer based, and on the cans that have english labels they list acetone as one of the solvents. So, if I were you I would NOT use Tamiya spray paint on top of an enamel paint. I once used Tamiya spray paint on top of Humbrol enamel and it turned out like cottage cheese. I've used Tamiya spray paint over Tamiya and Polly-S acrylics but only after letting them cure thourgholy and then applying mist coats at first. Generally, when I'm using Tamiya spray paint it is the first layer on top of the primer.

cliff strachan · February 03, 2010, 07:38:09 PM

Thanks very much,Paul. Its questions like these - the proper application of metallic and silver paints - that much has been written about and which should be addressed by a group such as ours in order to come up with some kind of satisfying definitive opinion.
Thanks again.

Oceaneer99 · February 04, 2010, 12:47:52 AM

The Testors Dullcote and Glosscoat are also lacquer. It's been a long time since I've used Testors enamel, but I recall their advice on the overcoats was to do a light mist, let that dry, and then put on a slightly heavier coat. The first one acts as a barrier, though if the second one is too thick, you can still have too much solvent, and that will take up your enamel. I've used Testors Dullcote over enamel before; I just put down a few thin coats, and didn't have problems with the enamel underneath cracking or bubbling.

I use acrylics now, and for the most part, I haven't had problems with spray lacquer clear coats over them.

Garet

cliff strachan · February 04, 2010, 10:56:05 PM

Thanks to you also Garet, I've been in the process of asking just about everyone I can think of as to the best way to handle silver Testors enamel. Everyone seems to have a different experience. The problem is that I want to mask the cabin of a B29 - among other things - and, as you know, that's a lot of masking. At the moment I'm considering painting my six pink or blue or something like that. But anything but silver! (Perhaps my frustration is beginning to show.)
Cliff.

Oceaneer99 · February 04, 2010, 11:37:05 PM

My last flying balsa model has been stalled for over 10 years because of a silver finish!

Garet

Balsabasher · February 06, 2010, 06:22:53 AM

Quote from: cliff strachan on February 04, 2010, 10:56:05 PM
Thanks to you also Garet, I've been in the process of asking just about everyone I can think of as to the best way to handle silver Testors enamel. Everyone seems to have a different experience. The problem is that I want to mask the cabin of a B29 - among other things - and, as you know, that's a lot of masking. At the moment I'm considering painting my six pink or blue or something like that. But anything but silver! (Perhaps my frustration is beginning to show.)
Cliff.

Cliff,have you considered masking the whole nose with a liquid latex,then cutting through the film to expose the areas that need painting ? I can vouch that it works well on the B-29 nose as I restored a B-29 ID model in similar fashion,all of that biconvex nose is a tad too much for conventional masking tapes etc,just a suggestion for you.
Barry.

lmsjim · February 12, 2010, 05:48:34 PM

Paul,
I have been away for a while and found your F-84 model. You did an outstanding job on it. While I have had limited success using various paints on plastic models i never even thought of trying it on a wooden one. Great for you. I will have to try it on my next mode.

Thanks again you are inspiration.

Jim

cliff strachan · February 13, 2010, 06:40:59 PM

Thanks for the hints, Barry. I'm still experimenting. But I did mask a mock up of my B29's nose only out of balsa and masked in the conventional way. It turned out actually pretty good. Then I tripped over the airbrush hose, fell down voicing the appropriate expressions, and had to repair a damaged nose! Good grief!

Cliff.

News:

Strombecker Thunderstreak