F-102 Delta Dagger for Century Jets cookup

Ken Pugh · July 13, 2009, 01:32:59 PM

I fretted over the wing strakes for some time. When I made the perpendicular antennae on the tail, I just used 1/32" basswood. I worked out so well that I did it again for the wing.

The two inner strakes are on the top of the wing and the two outer strakes go over the leading edge and under the wing. For the outer ones, I just cut the strip of 1/32" basswood a little long and glued it to the wing with CA. Either my CA is just getting too old or this can be a problem getting it to set properly. Eventually, I got to the point where I gooped the glue on there and got the strake where I wanted and perpendicular to the wing, then sprayed it with Zip Kicker. That solved the problem nicely. I had to do a little carving on the underside of the strake to match the contour of the wing. I then carved it down and got the length past the leading edge where I wanted it. Flip it over and repeat.

An important thing to consider with these thin strips, the basswood easily splits along the grain when thin. This can be stopped by impregnating the wood with CA. This also works well if you want to use cardstock. Once you get thin wood or cardstock positioned and shaped, saturate it with CA and it will get hard as a rock. It can also be carved and sanded when dry. This trick works well when you are forcing cardstock into a curved or rounded shape when wet. Once you get it where it needs to be, goop on the CA then shoot it with kicker. CA needs moisture to set anyway, so it's not a problem using the glue on wet surfaces.

Ken Pugh

Ken Pugh · July 13, 2009, 01:38:10 PM

I now have the entire fuselage covered in gray primer and it looks really slick. I have not taken pics because getting a camera to focus on gray is extremely difficult. I still see little areas that are not perfect on the surface but I've finally had enough chasing imperfections. Some of these areas I have filled several times. I would just use several coats of this filling primer but it takes a week to fully harden and I want this thing done. I have got to get better at creating smooth surfaces in wood. Maybe I just need to build up quite a lot of layers of sealer or polyurethane before priming.

With it in it's gray state, you can see the strong similarities to other deltas, especially the Eurofighter. Form really does follow function in deltas.

Ken Pugh

cliff strachan · July 13, 2009, 04:43:43 PM

You're doing a fine job, Ken. You've also touched on the problem of "time" as it relates to solid models. It's certainly all right to call forth the adage: "If a job's worth doing, it's worth doing well", but at some point we all have to decide when: "enough's enough". After all there are other things in life.

Cliff.

Oceaneer99 · July 14, 2009, 10:19:50 PM

Ken,

Thanks for the CA tip. I've used that on inlets and rocket nozzles carved from wood, but never thought to try it for cardstock, which I have had problems with before (fuzzing).

Garet

Ken Pugh · July 16, 2009, 10:16:37 PM

After a lot of nerve-wracking effort at cutting masking for the lettering, I've decided not to paint the markings. I will go back to my tissue trick then hand paint over the tissue markings. They are just too tiny at 1/72 scale to waste time on.

Ken Pugh

lastvautour · July 17, 2009, 12:17:09 AM

You must get into decal making. The Testor starter kit is great and any inkjet printer can make really nice decals.

Lou

Ken Pugh · July 27, 2009, 12:03:07 AM

I have built the base for the model so I can now start painting. The base is built from red oak. It has a real open grain and is tough to work. The base is 3/4" (sold as 1") and the upright arm is 1/4". The label is printed on parchment cardstock. I sprayed several coats of Krylon Crystal Clear on the label then used glue stick to attach to base. Once dry, I covered it with a coat of polyurethane. The base itself is coated with several coats of polyurethane.

The model was taped to the upright and a hole was drilled through the arm and model for the pin. The hole in the model was then enlarged for a piece of brass tubing that fit the pin.

I made a template from card stock to design the upright. I first marked off the thickness of the base. I then marked in the angle of the displayed plane. From there I drew a parallel line that showed the height above the base, then the upright was drawn in. This was cut out and used as a template for the upright. I like the look of this base and will probably build it for the rest of my models until I get tired of it and design another.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-2980

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-2979

Ken Pugh

lastvautour · July 27, 2009, 07:01:19 PM

Your stand looks great. A close-up of the model in the first picture shows the grey quite nicely and the smooth surface of the F-102. It is going to look fantastic when finished.

Lou

Ken Pugh · July 28, 2009, 02:22:15 AM

Thanks Lou,

That primer I used works out well though it takes 7 days to fully cure. It is strong and fills somewhat. I got tired of fine sanding but I know it needs to be super smooth for a good metal finish. This one is practice for when I get to the bare metal planes later.

Ken Pugh

Ken Pugh · August 06, 2009, 11:31:56 AM

Big setback with the jet today. I used frisket to cover the tissue decals as I painted the gray of the body. The decals had several coats of clear on them. Unfortunately, the frisket lifted the clear and ripped/fuzzed the markings. Oh well, they didn't look good enough to me anyway. So, I will step away from this thing for awhile and go back to painting all markings. I just have to learn how to cut perfect masks. I think part of the problem is the images I work from are not perfect, so I am going to draw out my own on drafting mylar and see if that helps with mask creation. I don't know what I'm going to do about the writing. Once I get this licked I'll be able to build all the jets I want, until then, what a pain.

Ken Pugh

lastvautour · August 06, 2009, 03:27:11 PM

Someone told me to use basket type coffee filters for masking. You cut them and then wet them. They will lay down nicely and be sure to spray you paint lightly and remove before the paper dries. I have not tried it personally as I normally make my own decals on my printer.

Lou

Ken Pugh · August 06, 2009, 10:22:48 PM

i have gone over to the dark side (easy, smart side?) and ordered decal paper. I was turned off before because of the expense but there are manufacturers that sell direct. I also realized one did not have to use the entire piece of paper but I can cut out a section and use just like I do with the tissue. I will get this problem licked soon. I got 20 sheets for $17 plus shipping.

Ken Pugh

lastvautour · August 07, 2009, 12:35:17 AM

You require white and clear.

Lou

Ken Pugh · August 07, 2009, 12:20:22 PM

That's what I got, a pack with 10 sheets clear and 10 sheets white.

Ken Pugh

lastvautour · August 07, 2009, 05:01:45 PM

You are on your way. Here is model I finished using home made decals. The only thing I stole from another kit was the intake warning decal.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8416077@N08/3765834079/

Lou

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F-102 Delta Dagger for Century Jets cookup