Railings Part 1 Jig - Part 2 Mesh

[Oceaneer99]

copied from old MSN forum:

From: MSN NicknameNobicus1  (Original Message)   Sent: 7/4/2003 2:02 AM
A tip from a card modeling site.  Make a small frame about 12 to 18 inches wide having a back made of thin material and the 2 sides elevated so that in end section you have a "U" shape.  Soak cotton thread in superglue and stretch across the frame.  The thread dries stiff.  To make railings you can run 3 threads close together and then create uprights of the same material.  This can then be cut from the frame, cut to size and used where you want.  The plain thread can be used for rigging wires etc.,
I f you want really thin material (conning tower top on the USS Perch?)and can't cut wood thin enough a few drops of superglue on stiff card makes a very hard material.  It is best to cut the shape first and then harden it (saves knife blades).
Roger
   
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From: MSN NicknameRFB-1   Sent: 7/4/2003 10:45 AM
I think we could all learn from our card modeling friends, Would you mind posting a link or three on the links page? Thanks....
RFB....

   
Recommend     Message 3 of 7 in Discussion
From: MSN NicknameKennyHorne   Sent: 7/5/2003 5:48 AM
Hi All,

I too have stumbled accross that site though alas I cannot remember where :-(

If you are interested in card modlelling though I have a few great links here for you

Fiddlers Green.  Great cheap models...fun for all
http://www.fiddlersgreen.net

Saul's Web Magazine.  Great how to and construction reviews.  Check out back issues
http://www.cardmodelers.org/

and the daddy of all help/link sites
http://www.cardfaq.org/faq/

Card is fast becoming my favorite form of modellings... Solid excludued of course ;-)

These links will get you into enough free sites that you can more than get your feet wet for very little money.  Watch those printer cartrigies though.  It's addicting!

Take care, and have a nice summer

Kenny

   
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From: MSN NicknameKennyHorne   Sent: 7/5/2003 6:00 AM
Oh Ya,

I forgot why I wanted to respond to the last post.  SILK thread is the only way to go.  It will cost you a goofy amount to buy a small spool but it will last longer than you will :-( and it is so superior for your models.  Here's why.  Cotton or polyester or any blend of the two wit turn fuzzy and will atract dust to make it look even more fuzzy.  Cashmire railings are not what your PT boat deserves.  Silk will not fuzz up.  You will get crisp sharp lines that just look so right as opposed to, well, fuzzy.

So, go out to a quality fabric/notions store and pull out a $20, bite your lip and hope you get change.  You only have to do this once and the long hours you spend on your models will not be cheapened by fuzzy kids stuff cotton threat :-)

Kenny
   
Recommend     Message 5 of 7 in Discussion
From: MSN NicknameKennyHorne   Sent: 7/5/2003 6:18 AM
Found it.. The link that is!

http://home.mindspring.com/~carapace/

Click the heading on the left side of the page labeled "Railing Constrution"

Kenny

ps.
I'm still half asleep this mornnig, and can tell that I've let a few typos go through on these last posts.  Is there a spell check function here that I'm missing, or are you guys just gonna hafta guess at what I'm trying to say?

   
Recommend     Message 6 of 7 in Discussion
From: RyanShort1   Sent: 7/5/2003 7:33 AM
Another of the good cardmodeling sites is www.cardmodels.net which is a fairly active message board. Also some tips and techniques there such as making vacuformed canopies and such.

Ryan

   
Recommend     Message 7 of 7 in Discussion
From: bfc   Sent: 8/8/2003 8:43 PM
You lads are interested in Card Modeling?.. Way back, I designed a few Card models from my favourite SF PC game. The easiest, is a thing called the "Super Nova Research Station".  Give us a hoy, if anyone's interested..

[lastvautour]

Small scale deck rails may made from nylon screen mesh bought from your local hardware store. I personally recycled from old mesh I replaced at home.
1. Select undamaged section of mesh
2. Trim to vertical height - I chose three horizontal members. Leave the vertical members on the last bottom row.


Lou

[lastvautour]

3. Remove vertical sections using either tweezers or carefully cutting with knife. I selected a few two bay and three bay sections for viewing. A clean up of the remaining bits can be done with a sharp blade. I just cut it as close as possible and leave the knobs. It does not detract much at smaller scales.
4. Using the long vertical section of the open bottom bays, attach to the model gel super glue. It seems to work better than liquid. I have used wood glue also to good success. Work a few bays at a time and watch for the twisting.

The piece can be removed and the area re-sanded before attempting attaching again.

Lou