Gary Deans' Strombecker Vought F7U-1 kit build

[Gary Deans]

Here is Gary Deans' build of the Strombecker kit version of the Vought F7U-1.

Plans are in the gallery:

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=7886

and

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=7885

[Gary Deans]

Kit parts laid out.

[Gary Deans]

Finished model:

[Peter]

Very nicely done!

Peter

[Balsabasher]

What a beauty,always liked the Cutlass,I see that someone is getting one flying again in the USA.
Barry.

[lastvautour]

Nice smooth finish. Please show us some build photos and tell how you achieved that finish.

Lou

[Gary Deans]

STROMBECKER F7U-1 CUTLASS SOLID KIT (from 1953) BUILD

Background:

I remember building a "Cutlass" balsa display model back in about 1953 or 1954...but the model kit maker is lost to my memory. Then I discovered the Strombecker solid kits about 5 years ago and I bought up all the early 1950's jets they made, including the F7U-1 Cutlass. The kits are beautiful: smooth, well shaped pine parts with great vintage instructions. Also the kit inclues a nice stand that looks so period perfect.

Build Tips:

1) Sanding - Sanding the trailing edge of the wings to a "sharp" edge was difficult. One sanding stroke
too many and the wing was gone! So I had to make myself sand to a fine square trailing edge to maintain the kits wing profile.

2) Detail - I consider these solid model a great build and a nice break from detail. I am tempted to add landing gear, cockpit internals, control surfaces, etc, but stop myself and try to celebrate the aircraft's basic shape. However, on this model I did reshape the upper fuselage to show the two engine bays more realistically.

3) Decals -Old kit decals are fragile - these were from 1953 - as soon as they hit the water they fragmented into many small unusable bits. I ended up using new decals taken from modern plastic kits.

4) Paint -Never had so much trouble! Krylon had a spray can of just the right color for the early US navy jets. Loved Krylon in the past, but I found any recoating after the required 24 to 48 hour wait would wrinkle the previous coat. I found that all coats must go on within the first 1 hour painting window. Then, after a week's wait for the paint to dry, I could rub out (2000 grit) and final polish

(Novus plastic polish followed by toothpaste) to the shine I wanted.

Gary Deans

[Balsabasher]

Gary enjoyed reading your notes on your Cutlass build,if I can just comment on the trailing edge thing,well you are right getting a sharp edge is difficult but really is not needed as sanding down to a small but blunt edge is all that is necessary,look at any jet in a museum etc and you will see that the trailing edges are far from being too sharp usually oval if anything and far from being too smooth as well,when working to small scales it is just not practicle to go sharp as inevitably in a short period of time with the sanding etc the edges just crumble.

Regarding the old decals there is a dodge with these to restore them and make these useable again,by flooding the decal areas with something like yacht varnish and a soft brush ( thicker than ordinary varnish ) and allowing to dry out they are easily saved,they make take a bit more soaking off from the carrier film but it works fine,what happens is the thicker varnish bridges the cracks and holds them into place,model type varnishes or sprays are not suitable it has to be the heavier domestic type finish,the pound/dime shops around sell ideal varnish for this purpose which comes in convenient tins.

Your Cutlass is a credit to you and I may just get out a few of my solid kit collection to build up too like you have done,they are no good stuck in boxes but need to be built as they were intended for ! you have proven that with care they can be made into lovely models to enjoy,and I agree the aircrafts basic shape is their real beauty.

Barry.