Heinkel 113

[Paul]

Finished my Heinkel 113 yesterday.  It was inspired by the WWII ID model cook-up but I noticed that the wing from the Navy ID plans is tapered front and back while photographs show the wing almost straight in front.  I wound up using a 3-view from http://richard.ferriere.free.fr/3vues.  Heinkel had numbered this design as the He-100 and intended it to compete with the Me-109.  Sources differ on how many were built but it was probably less than twenty.  Other than guarding the Heinkel factory these planes served only as an intrument of propaganda.  The Germans took lots of pictures of the few planes that existed, changing their markings each time they were photographed.  The intent was to create the impression that the Germans had multiple squadrons of 400mph He-113 fighters at the ready.  This must have worked to some extent for the navy to bother making an ID plan for the type.

Probably no Heinkel 113 was ever painted in the colors I've picked, but after a long grey winter here in Portland I felt more like a Mediterranean scheme.

the photos in my gallery have been photo-shopped to remove the mounting wire from the pictures.

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=216

[Oceaneer99]

Very impressive work, Paul.  How did you make the panel lines?

As to the long gray winter in Portland, why, it is currently sunny here in Seattle and has been for at least five minutes today. 

Garet

[lastvautour]

Awesome work. tell us how you made your panel lines.

Lou

[Paul]

Thanks Garet and Lou,
   To make the panel lines:
After the model is primed I stick a piece of painter's tape on the model to use as a straight edge then scribe in the line with a sharp awl.  Go very light on the first pass as pressing too hard on the edge of the tape can dent it.  I then sand with 400grit to knock off any burrs.  Next go over the model with an old toothbrush to get the dust out of the grooves. Re-prime and paint.  After painting I accent the lines with a fine-tip marker. Art Media here in Portland sells markers named "Pigma Micron" that are waterproof and fadeproof.  The ink takes a few seconds to dry, so if you get any where you don't want it you can wipe it off with your finger.  If you wipe in the direction of the airflow you can get a neat weathering effect.  The ink is not solvent proof, so if you want to use a clear-coat, spray a list mist for the first layer.  Brushing on a clear-coat will wipe off the ink.

I've only tried scribing on basswood, I'm not sure how it would work on something with a more uneven grain like pine or fir.  It might be hard to get a consistent width.

[lastvautour]

Thank you Paul. It really works well for your models.

Lou