A forum member requested details on the finishing process which I use for a solid model. Thought others may be interested so I have posted the attached PDF document as a reference. There are certainly other methods for painting a solid wood model. But this may provide a starting point for folks new to creating solid wood models and wishing to develop an appropriate paint finishing method.
Hopefully other forum members will also describe their painting process.
There are also some great threads on specific topics (using Future, craft paints etc.) in this section of the site which may assist folks.
Thank you very much! Great information!
I found this shellac in my box of clear coats. Would this work to seal the wood before priming? Thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/I7IElKB.jpeg)
No sure.
Check the can to see if the fine print on the spray can indicates it is wax free. A search of the internet indicated the new cans state wax free. The search also indicated the the product in the spray can has to be wax free to prevent the spray tip from clogging which makes sense. So even if the can does not specifically indicate wax free somewhere in the fine print on the can you should be good to go.
Zinsser shellac in a brush on can contains wax.
Thanks! I think I remember seeing "wax free" on there somewhere, but I will check again before I use it. So this seals the wood and fills the pores, correct?
Yes. Shellac will seal the wood without raising any wood fuzzies like a water based primer would do. It will fill minor pores. But if you have a very porous wood like oak, it won't fill the pores. Looking at your photo's it looks like you have used pine. The shellac will seal everything up nicely and prevent any sap bleed through. It will provide a solid base for you to apply primer to.
Don't forget to lightly sand the shellac after each coat to remove any rough spots or runs.
Thank you! I will give that a go. I might experiment on a scrap first. My Thunderbolt is just about ready for priming, so I'd like to try the shellac on this one to see the difference it makes.
Testing on a scrap piece is a great idea.
Shellac is a very thin liquid, similar to water. I have never sprayed straight shellac. Just the BIN which has some white filler. so I would anticipate it would be a little thicker when applied. I think the trick will be to see how it sprays from the can in order to prevent runs. Remember, shellac bonds to itself by partially dissolving the coat below. So it's better to apply light coats rather than heavy coats.
Thanks for the information, that's very helpful. Experimenting seems to be the wise think to do.