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Fireball XL-5

Started by Ken Pugh, January 18, 2010, 03:07:22 AM

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Ken Pugh

I went with the Master G233 set.  That is a Master G23 with three nozzles and needles, 0.2mm, 0.3mm, and 0.5mm.  I got it from TCP Global, a good company with very good prices.  They sell everything you need for airbrush painting, and I do mean everything.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/master-performance.aspx

This choice was based on info from the airbrush tricks website, which was down for quite some time but the forum is still working.

http://theairbrushforum.com/

The guy who owns the site gives away all the secrets.  He has a formula for reducer that I use to good effect.  I bought my compressor based on his recommendations, the same with this airbrush.  He is a professional and owns the Iwata brushes, but he says for most of his work he keeps picking up the Master airbrush because it is easy to use.  I like the price; I got the airbrush with three nozzles/needles and a quick disconnect with a throttle valve all for $65.  Can't beat that for a good internal mix airbrush.  I still haven't messed with it because life has been a roller coaster here at our home.  My wife had been out of work for over 6 1/2 months but she finally got a job that she loves.  Works out great because the company she worked for is on the verge of collapse.

The original Fireball models had the panel lines airbrushed in and I need to practice some before I spray them.  I have been using a Paasche external mix for almost 30 years.  That brush still works great and still gets used.  Once I get the thinning ratio and air pressure down for this effect, it should go easy.

My compressor is a 2 hp 8 gallon model from Harbor Freight that I picked up for $90.  His recommendation was to get the similar model from Sears.  It is loud, but I have it in another room with a long hose that reaches to my model area.  I love that thing.  I was using the Badger compressor all these years.  It is quiet but it pulsates since it has no tank, you can't adjust the pressure, and it constantly spits water on your work.  I have no such troubles with my current compressor.  This setup has made me fall in love all over again with airbrush work.  I have to force myself to drag it out instead of taking the easy way out with a brush, but the results are worth it.  I am planning on working in very small scales in the future and airbrushed paint makes all the difference with them.

For paints I have been using the cheap craft paints.  I find that Delta Ceramcoat works best for me.  They are not the greatest but they are consistent and it says right on the label whether the color is opaque or transparent.  They seem to be the brand that the craft stores always carries, whereas other brands they shift in and out, probably depending on deals with the company.  With whatever paint one chooses it is a matter of learning to use it.  They all have their traits that must be catered to and you just have to figure them out and be consistent.  With a decent primer and a scuffed surface (Scotchbrite), they adhere just fine and stay where you put them.  I just have to remember to scuff my surface after getting it so smooth.

Ken Pugh

Ken Pugh


lastvautour

Ken, the Fireball is looking better every time you post a picture.

Lou

Ken Pugh

Thanks Lou,

I shudder to think how it will look once the primer goes on and later when the silver paint hits it.  I just hope all works out well.

Ken Pugh

cliff strachan

Nice model,Ken. Good luck with the painting. It sure can be a problem-at least I'm having every difficulty imaginable.
Cliff.

Ken Pugh

The detail is now complete on the rocket.  Some drawings show rocket nozzles on the bottom and some pics do not show them.  Again, that's the problem with TV/movies, not all the models used at all times are consistent.  I decided since it will be on a launch base, I would leave them off.

Now I move to building the base with the launch rails and dolly.  Should be fun.

Ken Pugh



http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4447


lastvautour

Awesome job Ken. I eagerly await the finished model.

Lou

Oceaneer99

Ken,

Wow, you have added so many little details to the model.

Mark Braunlich

Just reading this thread for the first time and noticed your interest in Craig Breedlove's Spirit of America.   You might find it interesting that one version is preserved at Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry.   One wonders if they might have any drawings of it.   Here's a link to several pages of photos of the museum which include several views of the car.  http://www.pbase.com/dwagler/museum

Mark

Ken Pugh

Thanks a lot, Mark.  Those pics help a great deal.  I think a good enough model can be made with some good pics and those are the best I have so far.  Again, thanks.

Ken Pugh

Ken Pugh

Finally getting to an update.  The launch rails are built and sealed and the launch skid is now in construction.  The supports for the rails were a challenge to find a way to build accurately.  I finally decided to make some kind of jig, then realized I could just use card stock.  The parts are drawn out on the card stock and wood is glued down using glue stick.  The glue stick had an added benefit of providing a barrier between the glue used in construction and the paper.  After completion, the part peeled off the paper.  Any place where the CA glue got through and stuck to the paper was easily separated with a single edge razor blade.  I also found it easier to build a long line of supports then separate them later.  This gave me a good, uniform, set of parts.



http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4588



http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4585



http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4586

Completed launch rail on base.



http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4587



cliff strachan

This is turning out to be a real nice, different and very interesting model.

Cliff.

lastvautour

Neat trick and excellent results.

Lou

Ken Pugh

Yes it does indeed work great.  For my next trick, smaller pieces.  The same type of pieces are used around the launch sled but much smaller.  The above pieces are the smallest pre-cut wood I have and I don't think going smaller will work.  Instead, they will most likely be wire.  Fortunately, I read two books on building small model ships (6 inches long and fully detailed).  In it, he used wire for all the ropes and showed the jigs he used.  I think that will be the trick needed and great practice.

Ken PUgh

Oceaneer99

Ken,

Great work!  What are the titles of those two books?  They sound interesting.

Garet