History
[taken from Gabriel Stern's article at: http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal10/9801-9900/gal9886-Kawanishi-Stern/00.shtm (http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/Gal10/9801-9900/gal9886-Kawanishi-Stern/00.shtm) Be sure to take a look at Gabriel's excellent build.]
At the start of the 20's it was realized in Japan that racing planes could be of great interest, therefore the first plane in the country designed for that purpose was built by Kawanishi and designated K-2. It was to be powered by a six-inline Hall Scott rescued from another plane.
By 1921 the result of the endeavor was a very pleasing, modern little plane of refined lines that showed promise. It was made mainly of wood and had a low cantilever wing of constant chord.
The little fin/rudder area apparently gave a bit of trouble under some circumstances and minor problems precluded the building of more machines. The only K-2 built didn't enjoy much development, but the plane flew with wire-rigged wings and later received airfoiled wing struts. Wheels had their spokes exposed or covered, depending on the photos. At least two props can be seen on photos. The little plane eventually reached an unofficial speed of about 250 kph, not bad for the about 220 hp of the engine and for 1921.
The boxy radiator, right on the face of the pilot, puts a sort of funny note to the design.
kenji.
Addition of photograph
Excellent Kenji,these show the wing taper better,note the earlier wire braced wing as well before speed fairings were fitted,very useful pictures.
Barry.
Barry,
I am glad of these photographs useful for you.
I began to cut down the body.
1.The fuselage sticks two blocks together. I make the hole of the pipe that the propeller shaft puts at this stage.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/K-2-body01.jpg)
2.I get the part of the cockpit made with another wood. I tightly makes it so that there is no space.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/K-2-body02.jpg)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/K-2-body03.jpg)
I look forward to more of your work. You are giving me new ideas on carving. Thanks
lou
lou,
Thank you.
To detach it, the part of the cockpit is applied with the adhesive only by one place(point).It comes off when strongly pushing. But, it doesn't come off even if it cuts down with the knife.
kenji.
I plane the fuselage noting the section type.
The part of the cockpit has not carved the hole yet.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/K-2-body04.jpg)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/K-2-body05.jpg)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/K-2-body06.jpg)
kenji.
Nice start to an interesting project. What scale is your K-2?
Lou
Lou,
Thanks,
The scale of this model is 1/50. Because the metric system is used in Japan, 1/50 and 1/25 are used.
kenji.
Being followed with great interest,what lovely neat building.
Barry.
Thank you kenji.
Lou
Barry,
Thank you.
This wood can do delicate work.I always make cockpits with this method.
kenji.
I carve in the cockpit. It thins it as much as possible.
kenji.
Watching intently at this tutorial Kenji,the wood looks to work beautifully to get that close to the walls.
Barry.
Barry,
Thank you.
The wall was planed as thinly as possible.
kenji.
The tail plane and the back of the fuselage are assembled.
The cockpit housing turned out wonderful kenji. The workmanship is very excellent.
Lou
Lou,
Thank you.
This production is much easier than externals.
kenji.
I assembled parts other than the propeller.
kenji.
Kenji I can clearly see the distinct advantages of the separate cockpit section being made up as it is,I am going to use this system myself on the next model,your progress is excellent and the model looks great.
Barry.
Barry,
Thank you.
Please use this method.
kenji.
This is a process of production of propeller.
The thickness of wood is 3mm(3/25in).
kenji.
I will paint sanding sealer dope on all parts.
kenji.
Looking really good Kenji,the propeller really sets the nose off nicely,I really enjoy your updates,thank you.
Barry.
Barry,
Thank you.
I made the propeller well.
I painted sanding sealer dope.
kenji.
I painted primer surfacer.
kenji.
Kenji I think that in model form the Kawanishi K2 looks better than in the full sized photographs,your model has done it full justice.
Barry.
Barry,
I have been deeply moved by your word.
I sanding the primer surfacer, and flatten the surface.
The purpose of the sanding sealing coat is to waterproof. I sanding with a water-proof sandpaper.
Kenji,well illustrated,people get confused sometimes over the use of sanding sealer first before the essential primer,the primer certainly picks up the odd bumps and blemishes that can easily be missed in the raw wood state,I seem to be spending more time than ever sanding and finishing these days before the final paint goes on.
Barry.
barry,
The processing of the waterproof is very important. I do not thickly coat the surfacer so much.
I straighten shape by the sanding. It doesn't worry even if the wooden basis appears.
I make the tool to put the 400-Grit and 1000-grit sandpapers on the wood with a sharp corner.
I have painted the surfacer on the propeller braid by mistake. :o
kenji.
I scraped off paint of the propeller.
kenji.
The tires are made from plastic jacket of electrical cable.
It is a method of the easy making.
kenji.
Excellent idea Kenji,another method that I use is to buy those cheap boxes of rubber seals in auto shops,in them comes a variety of rubber rings suitable for placing onto wooden rims,making these old wheels is a real art in itself.
Your tutorial is fascinating and very useful,as model builders we source things that others would throw away.
Barry.
Barry,
Thank you.
The woods is bonded to both sides of the brass line and the strut is made. It fixes with the tape until the bonding material hardens.
kenji.
Nice work. What kind of glue do you use for this type of structure?
Lou
Lou,
Thank you.
It is a bonding material of the epoxy system.
I occasionally use Araldite.
An upper thing is a type that stiffens in five minutes.
kenji.
That is another good tip Kenji,I had not realised that Araldite was such an international product,it originated just after WW2 as a resin made for the aircraft industry called redux bonding,the first aircraft to use it was the de havilland Dove aircraft whereby the stringers and formers were both glued and partially rivetted to the skinning,its commercial use is now well known and the quality of bond is excellent,the biggest drawback is the shel life which by comparison with other adhesives is quite short,the quick drying version that you mention is a remarkable product.
Barry.
Unfortunately it is not available in North America.
Lou
Lou,
"Permatex" is the same bonding material.
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61MUB3EpU6L.jpg)
kenji.
Thank you kenji.
Lou
Barry,
The epoxy bonding material is used to manufacture "Shinkansen" of Japan.
I built the strut with the sandpaper and the knife.
kenji.
This is a good strong method of construction Kenji,it can be used on almost any strut application including interplane struts,cabane struts and undercarriages,I like it.
Barry.
Barry,
This method is more strong than the use only of the wood.
I made the wheel from accumulating three Plastic boards. The diameter of the board of the second piece is a little small. This becomes a dent where the tire fits in.
Tires are temporarily attached.
kenji.
Thanks Kenji very interesting. I am really enjoying learning all your techniques.
Peter
Kenji all of your techniques are so functional and practical,this is another idea for my next model,like Peter I am enjoying your approach to solid modelling.
Barry.
Peter,Barry,
I show another technique.
A few brass lines are soldered and thin strut is made. The width of strut is adjusted by the number of brass lines.
Strut of the width of 3mm is made in 6 brass lines of 0.5mm.
kenji.
Very useful for types such as the Fokker D.7/D.8 etc Kenji,or any aircraft that has a centre mounted flying strut with aerofoil,excellent keep them coming.
Barry.
I made the axle,tires and struts.
I bury tires' gaps with the Polyester putty.
kenji.
A very neat and sturdy undercarriage for the K-2 Kenji.
Barry.
It looks great Kenji.
Lou
Barry,Lou,
Using polyester putty.
After the patty dries,I rasped the surface smooth.
kenji.
It works very well.
Lou
Excellent Kenji,and very robust as well.
Barry.
I assembled the undercarriage.
Wheel cover is not yet.
kenji
Kenji your model of the K-2 has come on leaps and bounds,it looks very similar to my own rendering ! probably the only two models of this rare racer in the whole world ?
Barry.
Kenji, I love your work.
Lou
And me as well,the detail on the propeller and wheels is spot on.
Barry.
Lou,Barry,
Because they cannot watch a real plane, these two models are precious.
I make a square radiator from now on.
kenji.
That is so true Kenji,we can reproduce any airplane from any period in aviation history,bravo.
Barry.
Barry,
I think so, too.
It is the real pleasure of solid model.
kenji.
I made struts and radiator. I have struggled to adjust the length of the strut.
I am dissatisfied with the shape of radiator. I make it again.
kenji.
I made radiator again.
The left is a thing made from a plastic sheet.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=808.0;attach=2425;image)
kenji.
Nice work Kenji.
Lou
Yes that radiator is tricky Kenji,I think you have made a splendid job of the Kawanishi K.2.
Barry.