Peter, what tools do you have?

Lou
I hope the dressing down following the reception wasn't to harsh.

Like Lou wish that I could get more Basswood,it is very difficult to come by especially blocks of it,for making propeller's it is superb plus other small details that need to retain tight shapes that do not break.
Another good wood is Jelutong,used to be used by pattern makers before the modern materials came on the market for them.
Barry.

Hi Lou,

I have an okay selection of tools. Scroll saw, jig saw, micro saw, variety of flex cut carving knives, variety of files, sanding block, a new Dremel, small selection of chisels and paint stuff. I think I'm pretty well prepared with tools. I will post a photo tomorrow of my templates and wood.

Peter

I am using standard pine boards these days. The first items are the wings and fuselage. This is block stage with no contour and cut to the thickness of the wood which in my case is 7/8". Since you have a scroll saw, you can cut the wing close to the lines and finish with either a chisel or hobby knife followed by the old sanding block. I place a full sheet of sandpaper on my bench so I can move the part back and forth on it to make thing a bit smoother. The fuselage can be treated in the same fashion or like the photo I cut roughly around then made vertical cuts almost to the edge of the lines. I next use a chisel or sometimes my X-acto knife to get closer to the line. I will then use a sanding block (pic to follow) to cut the wood down to the lines. At this point everything is still in the block stage.

Lou

Next photo will show my blocked fuselage. I will wait for you to get this far before going on.

Hello Lou,
Here are my Handley Page Hampden Templates mounted on cardboard and the basswood wing, fuselage and nacelle pieces. The wood I was going to use for the fuselage didn't work out so I will be laminating two pieces of basswood.

Peter

Excellent Peter. I will start with the wing. First proceed to the block form by cutting away all that is outside the lines. I normally use the hobby knife to finish off the tip cross grain and then the trusty sanding block. Sand the entire outer area as we will be drawing on the outer edges. The blue section will be removed.

Lou

I have two method to remove the wing from the block. Depending on how wide the wing is. In this case both methods will be used.  After the edges are smooth and straight we mark the thickness of the center and tips. Next join the lines both front and back.

1. I cut vertical cuts nearly to the lines. this makes it easier to remove the material without damage to the piece we want to save.

2. A horizontal cut using a band saw or scroll saw depending on how wide the piece is.

Lou

Next, removing the excess wood.

Getting the wing shaped in block form. A chisel is used to remove the excess wood. Care must be taken to shave just a bit at a time as trying to do it all in one swipe will more than likely remove too much. The angle of the blade should be kept very shallow to remove just a bit at a time. You will notice the imperfections I found only after having removed the excess material. Next is placing the wing on the large medium sheet of sandpaper on my bench and moving it back and forth until the part is nice and flat on both sides. We will deal with the imperfections as we shape the wing, but that is another post.

Lou

I will now move on to the nacelle blocks. I see you cut them separately. No problem, I just prefer to shape both on one piece and then cut them later. The process is the select wood that has straight grain and mark both ends with the size of the nacelle. I next mark out portions to remove all around the piece. Slowly begin to remove the excess wood being careful not to take too much away. Once all major portions are gone, you slowly remove all the high points. Next the sanding block come in. In this case a piece of 80 grit paper was used. Angle the piece and slowly rotate as you push and pull it on the paper. At the end, hopefully you have a piece that is close to being round.

Now if someone has a lathe or a dowel of the correct size, life would be easier but not as much fun.


Lou.

To make the smaller parts, wood need to be cut down to the desired thickness. . I had the Hampden wood pre-cut before the post started so I will use Jorrit's Mossie tail plane to demonstrate. Start by measuring the thickness you want plus a bit for errors with the blade. I use the coping/fretsaw for Jorrit's benefit as well. You can use your scroll saw or a Band saw if you have one. Make sure you have ten fingers at the end. Using the coping saw, make your way around the piece in question and keep watch on the blade. It will want to wander. Oh yeah, watch the kitchen table if you are using it to cut your wood. The ladies don't like saw cuts in the edges. I think it shows character.


Lou

Off to Bingo with the misses. More later

Lou is that a chisel grinder that I can spot on your workbench ? it looks very neat.
Lovely progress on the Hampden and I am envious of that clear pine timber as well.
Barry.

Hi Lou,

I am back on shift (10 hour shifts) starting tomorrow. So my work on the Hampton will continue next Monday with updated photos.

Peter

Barry, yes it is a grinder and a wet/dry rotary stone. Works wonders with chisels or any blade.

Peter, that is fine see you next Monday. I will continue with the construction after you have reach this stage.

Lou

Here are some updated photos things have gone a little slower than I hoped. More sanding is needed on both the wing and nacelles.

Those Flexicut knives are excellent,I love my half round one the blades are top quality,carry on Lou just an observation !
Barry.