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Memoriam to his uncle - WO2 Jimmy Horne, WWII RCAF Observer

Started by lastvautour, March 08, 2016, 07:49:09 PM

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Kenny Horne

All primed up.  Only the tailwheel left to complete. 


lastvautour


Kenny Horne

Thanks Lou. I use the poster as an example of creating 3-D sketch models of organic shapes. Who'd have thought 70 years later these drawings could still be informing students  :)

lastvautour


Boomerang


Kenny Horne

Terrifying "Ya gotta have faith" moment   :-[


lastvautour


Kenny Horne

#22
Hi Lou et al.

I'm using Vallejo acrylics for the first time.  They are available at my LHS and like the idea of trying water based and that they are so easy to thin and hand brush.  I ended up kinda mixing my own colours after spending many frustrating hours trying to find a great representation of RAF Dark Green/Dark Earth.  Probably one more DG/DE coat to go before the black.

You wouldn't think that these most used of colours would be that tricky.  Man there are a lot of opinions out there.  Truth is though that it is very subjective and variable.  Even my model in photos taken outside in the bright sunshine and in shadow look very different.  It's like they are two different models.  I looked at book photos I have of the RAF Battle of Britain Memorial Flight Lanc and tried to match from these, but again, lighting in different photos / print process made the colours look very different.  Anyway, I just went ahead.

The detail shot is my fave as it gives a glimpse into the material  :)

Kenny

lastvautour

Looks pretty good to me. I use either Model Master or Tamiya acrylics but thinned with rubbing alcohol. You can use water for brushing but spaying does not work well with water. I use an Aztec that was about $30.00 some twenty years ago. As to colour fidelity, although both have RAF Dark Green, they are different.

Lou

Model Maker

Hi Kenny:

Looks like your faith was well placed. The paint seems to have covered uniformly based upon your last picture. No doubt you had a couple of "What have I done?" moments.

I've been following you build with great interest as I am looking to start some Halifax models which are similar in nature to the Lancaster. I have a couple of questions for you.  How did you join the 3 parts of the wings? And which tool do you use to "burn" the control surfaces?

Thanks in advance for your assistance - ken

Kenny Horne

Hi Guys thanks for the encouragement,

Ya, the paint is going down fine, whew  ;)  The first pic is with a bit of Future gloss coat to see what that would look like.  Ken, I use a Walnut Grove branded woodburner that I suspect that I got at a rather generic craft store like Michaels  or some such place.  It's nothing special but it does have an off/on switch that is handy.  It's got a large brass wedge on the dangerous end, kinda like a soldering iron.  I have seen them with exacto/scalpel type blades which would be great for finer details, but I've never found the immediate need for it. 

Masking and painting black is on the agenda for today

Kenny

Kenny Horne

Progress report:  more touch up to do then masking and painting the glass.  Not so much looking forward to that part...

Kenny

Oceaneer99

Lou, I was surprised that we didn't have the poster in the gallery. I added it in the instructions section:

http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=8466

lastvautour


Kenny Horne

#29
Canopy day.  I did the rear and ball turret first then decided that the main canopy was complex enough to deserve a photo shoot.  I've gotta say that symmetry is a tough mistress  >:( 

The final result is much the same as the turrets.  There is some bleed through that I probably could avoided with a bit better prep work, but the fix-up wasn't too difficult.

Kinda screwed up the top (escape hatch) part.  Got my positive and negative bits messed up...  May try and fix it tomorrow.