The Albacore's are in the paint shop receiving lots of work,meanwhile back at the workbench things are not idle as for some time now I have wanted to build a model of the Albatross DV to do justice to the subject.
The scale is to my favourite 1=24th which is easy on the old eyeballs these days and I like the feel of big solids that also look great hanging from the ceiling in dog fight fashion !
Firstly four select pieces of pine board were selected from the bargain bundle that was purchased at the local DIY store last week,missing the knots took some doing but when you are dealing with commercial materials that is something you have to just deal with,card templates made the job easier and before I knew it four wing blanks were before me ready for shaping,now this is where it got interesting because the Albatross has undercambered wings and guess what my pine boards were warped with built in undercamber ! old Chinese proverb says never look a gift horse in the face,so the happy accident was used to advantage and saved lots of tedious carving or as I normally do laminate balsa sheets over a former and bind tightly to set overnight but softwoods do not lend themselves to this operation and the built in undercamberr was a most welcome bonus.
The trailing edges were effectively scalloped with a abrasive paper stuck to a piece of dowel,this effect was caused by the dope tightening the piano wire trailing edges of the wings and it got progressively more pronounced as the aircraft was in service,you could leave this off as a factory fresh un-scalloped wing if you so wished.
I used a palm sander to put the final finish on the wood,give them a try they are cheap and really work well getting those awkward blemishes out.
The wood for the tail feathers was planed down and the parts marked out,I used Gorilla adhesive for this,it works by wetting one surface and applying the adhesive to the other,it expands three times its volume effectively filling any small gaps before sanding flush.
Now I need to find a nice big block of wood for the fuselage !
Barry.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_WING_BLANKS_BEFORE_SHAPING.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_WINGS_SHAPED_AND_SANDED_1.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_WING_BLANKS_BEFORE_SHAPING.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_WINGS_SHAPED_AND_SANDED_1.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_TAIL_FEATHERS_MARKED_OUT.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_TAIL_FEATHERS_MARKED_OUT.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_TAILPLANE_JOINED.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_TAILPLANE_JOINED.JPG)
Nice project. I know things will work out for you. I did not know about the scalloping. I thought is was manufactured that way.
Lou
The piano wire fits into a slot at the end of the rib trailing edge,then it is bound with beeswax thread,the fabric wraps around the wire and doped and sealed,the effort was worth the weight saving.
Barry.
The fuselage on the Albatross DV is a beautiful shape and holds the real vintage character of this particular aircraft,there is nothing really complicated about it but a bit of pre planning as always does not come amiss,for example if you cut the wing slot and pre-drill the cabane strut positions it makes life easier than if you leave this task until the fuselage has been shaped and rounded later,by doing it at the earlier time means that perfectly positioned points will have been made ensuring accuracy.
It is easy to simply cut multiple saw cuts then chisel out the slots for the lower wing and cockpit side profile.
The cockpit shape looking in planform is not round but oval,for this I drilled two holes carefully then with a half round chisel carefully removed the membrane,it is then an easy matter to scoop out the debris and tidy it up with a Dremel tool,if you wish you can drill all the way through and plug the lower but in my case I opted to stop at approx floor level,either way works but if you do the latter then it is easy to place a file through the opening and tidy things up that way.
Notice that the slots for the tailplane have been pre-cut as well,certainly easier than doing it later !
Biplane subjects present some interesting challenges but nothing is that difficult if you tackle it with confidence and as I mentioned earlier do a bit of planning before hand,the end results are well worth that extra bit of effort in building these lovely old flying machines.
Barry.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MARK_THE_SHAPE_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MARK_THE_SHAPE_.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROFILE_THE_BLANKS_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROFILE_THE_BLANKS_.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_REMOVE_THE_COCKPIT_AREAS_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_REMOVE_THE_COCKPIT_AREAS_.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CLEAN_UP_THE_BLLANKS_~0.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CLEAN_UP_THE_BLLANKS_~0.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CUT_THE_PLANFORM_TAPER_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CUT_THE_PLANFORM_TAPER_.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_slots.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_slots.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_DRILL_THE_CABANE_STRUT_POINTS_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_DRILL_THE_CABANE_STRUT_POINTS_.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_LOWER_WING_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_LOWER_WING_.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_COMING_ALONG_.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_COMING_ALONG_.JPG)
The master at work!!
Lou
Yes it is good to keep a photographic record,I also think it helps people as well study how things are made and fitted.
Nothing done today I had a rest.
Barry.
Excellent step by step Barry, after all that you deserve a days rest! I've just bought some of the gorilla glue to glue some hardwood, is the excess easy to clean off when it has dried? Regards Paul J.
Yes it is Paul and this is a big plus point with it,it cures hard and not rubbery like some adhesives,a friend put me onto it,Gorilla do a whole range of adhesives so make sure you buy the one that requires water on one surface to activate it,the water expands the adhesive allowing it to flow into every un-even surface,do some test pieces first to get the feel of it Paul,being really tacky from the bottle it clings really well,ideal for dihedral breaks when you crack the joint and allow a small gap for adhesive.
Barry.
PS Not sure if this adhesive is available outside of the UK at present ?
Thanks Barry, it is the moisture activated one that I bought. Regards Paul J.
Excellent Paul and note that it is a big bottle for the price as well so should go a long way as not much is needed on each joint the water does the activation process,try their cyno gel range as well these are some of the better quality ones and have good grab qualities,cheaper cyno is made from the by-products of the quality versions.
I am not connected with them in any way just like the products !
Barry.
Teach, Barry, Teach!!!
Gorilla Glue is available in the US and I was surprised it was available in the UK. Guess the bureaucrats haven't figured out a reason to ban it yet. That glue expands and foams so it is great for gaps. It can bite you but as long as it is used for its intended purpose, it does a good job.
Ken Pugh
Ken it seems that a lot of consumer products these days are international,we are deprived of things like Floquil but there are signage paints that are very similar.
Oddly enough the first job I wanted to do was to be an art teacher,they decried me because I was left handed,I went onto do other things but in recent years became a Master teacher in metaphysics,teaching has been a big part of my life,thank you Ken.
Barry.
Gorilla glue is also available in Canada. Pete Morro works almost completely with it.
Lou
Another lefty here Barry. Regards Paul J.
All of this dialogue on adhesives reminds us of the inadequate sticking qualities of very early Croid type glues etc,the main ingrediant was fish ! how people must have struggled to attach things like struts etc on early biplane kits in the 1930's ? this is why re-creating some of those old kits and plans is so rewarding today.
Then along came the old fashioned bead type glue that had to be melted in a special pan with a double water container,we had one of these in the school woodwork class ( teacher was not impressed with me making the occasional solid from offcuts instead of boring pipe racks !) and it was constantly on the boil,then wartime brought with it beetle glues and recorcinal resins which started to change the way wood was bonded together,the beetle glues could be detected with a mauve stain on one surface as the activator flashed off,in fact the cabinet makers owed it to the aircraft industry for producing reliable good adhesives.
After WW2 CIBA Geigy research at Duxford UK produced the now famous Aerolite and Aerodux adhesives the latter of which became known to us as Araldite the famous two part epoxy resin,Aerolite was a water mixed wood glue with remarkable water resistance once cured,from then on adhesives were influenced by surgeons in Vietnam who were using a new wonder adhesive to stick skin tissues together,yes you are right the name Cynoacrylate was penned and ever since variations have been on the market as gel,thin,medium and low odour with essential de-bonders to release stuck fingers !
Even the polyvinyl acetate acetate adhesives have moved forward into waterproof versions but they still have not got these quite right yet but no doubt they will.
Barry.
Some stages in detail construction of the Albatross DV,biplanes do take a bit more planning but are rewarding subjects once mastered,I hope that the following pictures will encourage others to give them a go.
Barry.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_BLANK_MARKUP_1.JPG
The propeller is started by marking out the blank with the profile of the blades,a piece of Jelutong is used.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_SQUARE_UP_AND_MARK_CENTRE_19.JPG
Slowly mark up and trim the shape of the propeller to incorporate the taper.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_HELICAL_TWIST_15.JPG
The brown areas represent the areas that have not been carved,it is a good idea to run a marker pen over the surface so that you can see where the whittling has taken place,carve in the helical part of the blade and then with a round file shape the hub portion,you will see the shape of the propeller evolve.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_AREAS_THAT_NEED_REMOVING_18.JPG
The prop blades just prior to shaping,think of it as a screw with the tip gradually flattening out,the hub will take care of itself and is easy to blend in later.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_IN_PLACE_8.JPG
The spinner which was cut from the front of the fuselage can be slotted to take the blades,any gaps were filled with plastic wood,a once over with a brown marker pen forms the basis for some subtle wood stippling later.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_SAW_CUT_FOR_DIHEDRAL_BREAK_22.JPG
First step in cutting the dihedral break,take a saw to the area followed with a v-shaped file,open the area up enough to run some Gorilla into the joint.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/DIHEDRAL_BREAK_20_DEF.JPG
A simple jig was made to set up the dihedral,two strips of wood at the tips and wings clamped to the board via elastic bands held with some small nails.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PRIMER_FLASH_OVER_2.JPG
The fuselage was flashed over with some primer to make painting easier later on,it also helped show up any blemishes that can be fixed now.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_LOWER_WINGS_GLUED_4.JPG
The lower wings in place ready for the next stage.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_BLANK_MARKUP_1.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_SQUARE_UP_AND_MARK_CENTRE_19.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_HELICAL_TWIST_15.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_AREAS_THAT_NEED_REMOVING_18.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PROP_IN_PLACE_8.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_SAW_CUT_FOR_DIHEDRAL_BREAK_22.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/DIHEDRAL_BREAK_20_DEF.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_PRIMER_FLASH_OVER_2.JPG)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_LOWER_WINGS_GLUED_4.JPG)
Thanks for the prop tutorial Barry.
Lou
You are more than welcome Lou,I thought that it was one area that modellers fight shy of,in reality it is fairly straightforward provided operation a few simple tasks are undertaken.
Barry.
Thanks for the photo masterclass Barry, us newbies need some guidance. I see the edges of your tongue and groove boards came in handy. Regards Paul J.
Absolutely nothing is wasted Paul,everything has some use one way or another,glad that you enjoyed the pictures,lots more to come as and when things get done,the Albacore's are curing out paintwise at the moment waiting for extensive masking and finishing but the cold weather spell is delaying things.
Barry.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MERCEDES_6_CYLINDER_ENGINE_FITTED.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MERCEDES_6_CYLINDER_ENGINE_FITTED.JPG)
The Mercedes 6 cylinder engine was quite a lump,checking various old pictures in 'Janes All the Worlds Aircraft' for the WW1 period I found some splendid photographs of these engines in different forms,the exhaust systems seemed to vary a lot with some going up towards the centre section of the wing and others slung to the starboard side of the aircraft,it was necessary to simplify the motor otherwise I could have gone on and on ! instead I opted for s basic block with exhaust manifolds represented with bamboo,spark plugs with dabs of PVA,a rocker cover and six cylinders carefully carved,the overall effect is satisfactory and brings out the character of the aircraft well,a block of Jelutong was used,precious offcuts of which fill many boxes in my workshop and shades of the days when you could visit real pattern making shops,offer to sweep the floor for the wood spoils ! and make a donation to their tea kitty,I was happy to do all of these things to come out with carrier bags full of useful quality wood that is lasting me albeit in smaller offcuts to this very day.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MAKE_THE_MERCEDES_ENGINE.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MAKE_THE_MERCEDES_ENGINE.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/INTERPLANE_STRUTS_ADDED.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/INTERPLANE_STRUTS_ADDED.JPG)
The interplane struts are basswood strip sanded to aerofoil and placed into indents formed in the wings,the indents are created with a hand held Dremel tool,the idea is simply to just dish in a small mark where the struts spring into place.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/IN_ITS_JIG_ALL_SET_UP.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/IN_ITS_JIG_ALL_SET_UP.JPG)
The setting up of biplanes requires a simple tear down or sacrificial jig,to make one draw the side view with the respective wing positions,note any wing incidence etc and incorporate this into the jig,trace the shape onto some ply or scrap wood and carefully fret out,make two sides and glue these to an appropiately sized base with a centre mark to line up the fuselage.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_IN_GO_THE_CABANE_STRUTS.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_IN_GO_THE_CABANE_STRUTS.JPG)
The cabane struts fit into the previously drilled holes in the fuselage and are made from brass tube which bends easily and can be manipulated and adjusted fore and aft,some leeway for adjustment is essential,small indents are once again made in the underside of the wings and the brass snapped into position,the design of the rigging jig allows for slight tension to be exerted onto the struts,once in position a slight squeeze and the brass tube digs into the wood,a quick zap with thin cyno does the rest,believe me you will not be able to shift them later,they are solid,the strength of the wing to fuselage fixing relies on the centre section,the interplane struts just sit into their indents but are not structural,the centre section ones are the working struts.
Any small holes can be fixed later with Araldite or similar for even greater strength,these models will last for many years,they are built that way.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_GLUE_UP_THE_RIGGING_JIG.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_GLUE_UP_THE_RIGGING_JIG.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_ENGINE_POSITIONED.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_ENGINE_POSITIONED.JPG)
The tiny Mercedes in position,it looks effective and once painted will look even better with some subtle paintwork applied.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CABANE_STRUT_SLAVES.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CABANE_STRUT_SLAVES.JPG)
In order to set the corect position of the struts slaves are made up to determine the respective 'rake' decalarge and angle of the struts,they also serve useful in cutting the brass tube to length gradually nibbling away until a snug fit is achieved.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_CABANE_STRUT_SLAVE_COMPONENTS.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/ALBATROSS_IN_ITS_JIG.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/ALBATROSS_IN_ITS_JIG.JPG)
The Albatross sitting in the sacrificial jig that can be torn down once the struts have been fitted,secured and left to dry overnight,you can work away in the knowledge that everything is at the right angle and position,balsawood jigs that wrap around the wings and are glued together can also be used,you just pull them apart after assembly has taken place,it takes all the hit and miss out of biplane construction.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/TOP_VIEW_IN_THE_JIG.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/TOP_VIEW_IN_THE_JIG.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_UPPER_WING_GOES_INTO_THE_JIG.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_UPPER_WING_GOES_INTO_THE_JIG.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_MOTOR_IN_POSITION_ON_THE_ALBATROSS.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_JIG_REALLY_WORKS_WELL.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_THE_CABANE_STRUTS_GO_IN.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_JIG_FROM_THE_FRONT.JPG
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_ASSEMBLY_JIG_IS_TRIED_OUT_FOR_FIT.JPG
Trying the jig out for fit and this is the time to make for any necessary adjustments.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/PLACE_THE_UPPER_WING_INTO_THE_JIG.JPG
The upper wing simply sits into the recess and is held in place with two elastic bands,the tension also allows for any minor adjustments.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MERCEDES_ENGINE_BLOCKS.JPG
The blocks for the Merceds engine.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MERCEDES_ENGINE_BLOCK.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/normal_MERCEDES_ENGINE_BLOCKS.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/MERCEDES_6_CYLINDER_ENGINE_FITTED.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/MERCEDES_6_CYLINDER_ENGINE_FITTED.JPG)
Superb work Barry.
Lou
Thanks for the continued tutorial Barry, they are coming on a treat. I particularly like your engines. I found Lou's tutorial really helpful, and you can save them to harddrive for reference without having to go on the net. Regards Paul J.
Thank you Paul & Lou for your kind comments,this has been my most comprehensive blow by blow account of one of my models so far,I have enjoyed every minute in taking the pictures with dusty hands ! explaining things in depth and putting the images up here,if a single person learns a snippet of knowledge then my aims have been fulfilled.
Barry.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/UNDERCARRIAGE_ON_2.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/UNDERCARRIAGE_ON_2.JPG)
The undercarriage is made from brass tube soldered up after binding with fine brass wire obtained from an embroidery type shop,it is easy to use and sweats up well with a tad of flux,simply wipe down the joint with cellulose thinners afterwards to get rid of the oily residue left by the flux.
You can easily pre-adjust the undercarriage legs before the final soldering,light tacking first before binding with the fine wire.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/UNDERCARRIAGE_ON.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/UNDERCARRIAGE_ON.JPG)
A few minutes were spent going around all of the strut attachment joints with slow setting epoxy,for this a toothpick was used with a slit cut in the end,the epoxy serves two purposes,firstly to secure things and also fill a few small holes effectively.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/FLASH_OVER_4.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/FLASH_OVER_4.JPG)
A few views after flashing over with grey primer,this reveals a few dings and blemishes that will need attention,the plan with the bare wood one is to varnish it to bring out the woodgrain then add a bit of selective colour and iron crosses,I do not normally do this but the aircraft type seemed to lend itself to this type of treatment,it can always be changed later on if I do not like the effect,its all about experimenting.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/FLASH_OVER.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/FLASH_OVER.JPG)
Todays task was to complete the wheels for the model,previously I have made up WW1 type wheels by cutting ply discs and adding balsa tyres then making up a balsa dome for the part that covers the spokes,now I have mastered making these fiddly items on a lathe and after some experimentation worked out how to do it as one unit,it worked out quite well and I am constantly learning new ways to turn by altering the angle of the cutting chisels etc,here are the results to judge for yourself.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/TURN_UP_THOSE_WW1_WHEELS_WITH_THE_CANVAS_DOMES.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/TURN_UP_THOSE_WW1_WHEELS_WITH_THE_CANVAS_DOMES.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_WHEELS_FETTLED_AND_SANDED.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/THE_WHEELS_FETTLED_AND_SANDED.JPG)
Jelutong finishes well and the beauty is that apart from the final parting by hand with a dowel saw you an do everything else on the lathe,final finishing etc.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/WITH_THE_CLEVER_DEVICE_MARK_THE_CENTRES.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/WITH_THE_CLEVER_DEVICE_MARK_THE_CENTRES.JPG)
This clever little gizmo saves a lot of hassle,investment in the centre locator will save lots of flustration in finding the precise centre,the best investment ever from places such as Proops BAROS and Endless Green.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/DRINKS_CANS_MAKE_IDEAL_MATERIAL.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/DRINKS_CANS_MAKE_IDEAL_MATERIAL.JPG)
Empty drinks cans make excellent material for model building,even the curve was right for making these seats for the Albatross,watch your fingers as the material is razor sharp when cut.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/WRAP_THE_FOIL_AROUND_THE_SEAT_BASE.JPG
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/WRAP_THE_FOIL_AROUND_THE_SEAT_BASE.JPG)
The alum material wrapped around the balsa seat base and locked with two tiny dressmaking pins,a tad of cyno locks everything.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10005/CLOSE_UP_OF_THE_FITTED_WHEELS.JPG
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Fokker D7 in Howard Hughes 'Hells Angels' colours gets in on the act for a photo shoot with the Albatrosse's in the sunshine.
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Barry, you continue to outdo yourself. Great models.
Lou
Lovely job Barry. Regards Paul J.
Some spirit based yacht varnish that I have had on the shelf for years was pressed into service,the result the first coat of golden yellow that has really brought out the beautiful grain of the pine timber to good effect,the plan is to add a bit of colour decoration like the crosses and a bit of colour to cover the inevitable filler on the tailplane,the plan is to add three coats each rubbed down with fine garnet paper.
Also made up the wing mounted radiators,all these are is scribed laths of basswood with a filler/sight cap made from scrap.
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The Albacore green areas were masked with Frisk film ( Frisket in the USA ) this low tack film has many uses.
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At long last the Hellcat gets some primer,so the paint shop has been busy today.
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Excellent progress Barry.
Lou
Hi Barry. I'm guessing but I'm assuming that you masked the plastic portion of your Wildcat before spraying on the undercoating. As I've tried just about every masking tape available, I'm wondering what masking tape you used. Some tape if they didn't pull off some of the paint, didn't leave a sharp edge or bled underneath then they would leave a gum residue on what they covered. Wonderful tutorial and very nice models.
Cliff.
Cliff there is no masking on the Hellcat but on the Albacore I used firstly Tamiya tape for the lines,then these were bulked out with ordinary auto tape,the Tamiya tape leaves a clean line if you press it down with the dished base portion of a domestic spoon,another dodge is to run a thin bead of clear dope along the tape first prior to spraying a fine mist coat,build up your painting in this way not allowing too fluid a coat to seep underneath,remember mist coats seal the edge nicely.
There is also a fairly new product on the market called 'Frog tape' this has a fine layer which reacts with paint and seals the edge,as yet I have not used this product but I know that Lou has tried it with success.
Remember the most important thing in masking is to allow the base coat to cure properly,if you do not then the tape will be affected by the paint and leave a nasty residue,proper paint cure depends on the weather or how it dries,I use a powerful street workers lamp on a stand,it takes the chill off the air in the workshop and dries my models at the same time,mine cost me £20 from Messrs Screwfix they had a special offer on them.
Hope that this answers your question and thank you for your kind comments Cliff,more painting to go on in a few minutes,the bit after the de-mask.
Barry.
Time to bring the Albatross alive with some markings,the iron crosses were first cut from card then with the tip of a craft knife gently scored around them,the slight ridge thus created helps the paint flow to the edges,still to be added are the white surrounds,for this I have ordered some fine chart tape to experiment with.
For painting I use Citadel finish,it is full bodied pigment and is easy to clean up,this is a quality paint used for model soldiers.
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The mask is made from Frisk film ( Frisket in the USA ) use a self healing board and a fine sharp blade,good quality nail scissors are a useful tool as well.
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Hand painting markings is an acquired art but once mastered offers potential,as I cannot go out and purchase transfers for my type and size of model leaves me no other option,there is great sense of achievement when the markings start to take shape.
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The biggest setback is dealing with the curvature of the shapes,you can pre-paint the markings onto tissue that has been treated with oxgal solution and a tad of acryic medium, then cut them out and paste them into place if you wish.
I found a technique that helps with the surrounds while painting the striping on my B-25. In the case of the crosses, make the mask for the black big enough to paint the black and the surround and paint the masked off area black. I airbrushed this part. After the paint is dry and before removing the mask, hand paint in the surround by following the outer edge of the mask with your surround color, in this case white. The key is to have a brush that has a tip that will give the proper width of the surround. The mask makes the outer edge neat and the tip makes the width correct. By using the tip and not varying the pressure, the stripe will be very uniform. Remove the mask and marvel at your pinstriping wizardry.
By the way, it is really great seeing you back at it.
Ken Pugh
Some good tips there Ken,everything taken onboard and thank you.
Barry.
Thanks Barry for your information regarding masking techniques. I made my assumptions on the basis that I took your cockpit of your Wildcat to be made of plastic. It sure looked to me as though it was a plastic moulded cockpit. Since then I've been attempting to mask my plastic cockpit with the use of Parafilm. It has become necessary because I had removed all of the previous masking and was left with exposed window ribbing that I didn't want to get pulled off. I'll let you know how it comes out - hopefully this year.
Cliff
Sorry Cliff I realise what you mean now,yes the canopy was moulded and in the picture it is just loose and sitting on the ledge of the aperture,I primered it without it being in place.
I have tried parafilm and just canot get on with the stuff,it has no adhesion whatsoever,the best thing to use is ordinary Copydex adhesive,this is latex based and just peels off easily,you can get small bottles of it called 'Maskol' in the model trade but it is virtually the same as Copydex.
I think the golden rule with cockpit canopies is to leave off the model until the very end to avoid damage,even paint can creep underneath and affect the plastic.
Sorry about my first confusing reply !
Barry.
Well I think anything else would merely gild the lily so today I wrapped the Albatross DV models up declaring them completed,there is no fussy detail just wholesome solid modelling,I hope that this particular project has alayed any fears of tackling biplanes and building them from scratch,yes there are more wings but in the end the construction can be simplified and as long as the jig principle is employed then nothing should go wrong.
The chart tape arrived in todays post and was quickly pressed into use in outlining those crosses,once in place I merely flooded the surface of the tape with white acrylic and gave an added coat of Johnsons clear to seal the edges.
The second Albatross was an experiment to see what beauty could be brought out with the grainy pine timber,the results you can judge for yourselves,the golden yellow yacht varnish smells wonderful and I am happy to say that I can live with the treatment,in fact this is not the first model done like this,my Lindbergh 'Spirit of St Louis' is done in a similar fashion with the registration letters and name on the nose picked out in black.
I never overdo the final finish being happy with a smooth presentable paint job,total elimination of any grain is of no consequence to me and also stops those in their tracks when they proclaim 'Which kit is that' ?
Well its time to clear the workbench and get to work on my latest exciting project,but you will have to wait to see the start of that one !
Barry.
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The Raiders of the Lost Ark flying wing needed some paintwork as it was showing signs of age,with some careful matching the paint has been restored to further bring to life this unusual subject used in the film,the original/s were built at Barrow on Furnace by Vickers Armstrong who dismantled them and shipped them over to the desert location where the filming was done,inspection of the photographs before drawing the plans for the model revealed at least four different versions of this machine ! one is still extant rotting away,the others are believed destroyed,the ground taxying replicas were powered with electric motors and huge propellers,when the filming was being done the noseleg was merely cranked over so the aircraft just kept turning,the scene was dangerous with all of the action going on and those props in motion.
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What scale is the flying wing Barry? I have some Pulp wargaming friends that maybe inspired by it to try solid modeling.
Peter
By all means get them building solids Peter,the model is to one of my oddball scales which I use depending on the subject matter,this one is aprox 1=32 if memory serves me correctly.
By the way if anyone wants a model from which to scale up of this subject then there is a small diecast available which depicts the film version,apart from that I cannot think of another model of it ? the aircraft has some challenging shapes that can be easily simplified,the dihedraled wing cranks at an awkward point but can be got around if needed.
Barry.
Superb Albatrosses Barry. I will post them to the Model Construction of the Year post.
Lou
Wonderful models of beautiful planes. Well done, Barry.
Ken Pugh
I'm forced to echo Ken's comments Barry for I too think they are "wonderful models of beautiful planes".
Cliff.