I am attempting to make clear canopies. I am using a 1/144 scale CF-100 as a prototype. I have another 3 CF-100 blanks awaiting carving.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/normal_DSCF1565.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4393
Gave up on clear canopy. Decals have been received. Painting will resume shortly. Today 37C with humidex. Not southern states hot, but very hot for us polar bear types.
Lou
Summer 1990, it was 35C, inside a CF-100 cockpit just before they closed the full canopy to see how enclose and hot pilots got it.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/animek/CF-100.jpg)
I know, I know it is not related to your thread, but it made me remember that day, it was very hot. My wife took the pic just before she sat herself in the front pilot seat (Was not allowed to argue on this one, i had to go into the back seat LOL!), we were like two kids talking inside the close canopy, telling to each other "how cool it was", LOL!
Ben
HI Lou,
That's a pretty neat canopy as far as I'm concerned. Clear canopies are almost "the be all and end all" for model building for me - as you know. I was even thinking of trying one for my CF101. However, the problem isn't so much the canopy but what's inside that makes it difficult.time consuming and put on hold. Some easier interiors can be replicated - employing artistic licence. But the interiors of a modern jet or commercial aircraft are so full of "stuff" that it seems an impossible task - a great problem for the group to address. Perhaps interiors could be made up of photos - if it's possible to get one - or just completely abstract. Or perhaps dug out and then painted black.
Cliff
Placing photo placards is a good idea Cliff. You can buy some for various aircraft but making your own would be even better. There are many cockpit photos available on line. I am still contemplating doing a canopy version at a latter time.
Lou
I've seen some plans use a picture of the front view of a radial engine in the cowl. I've been contemplating using a photograph instead. You could also use a pic for landing gear bays and the inside surfaces of landing gear doors. Such things have been done in boat and movie modeling for years. You could also build to a certain scale and install an aftermarket cockpit kit if one is available. I don't think it would be inappropriate to use the occasional metal, plastic or photo etched part on our models. Many of the kits had metal and plastic detail parts over the years. I think adapting, for example, a photo etched cockpit detail set to a wood model would be a great demonstration of modeling skill. This is, after all, the beauty of our craft and why we don't just pull a kit out of a box and build to the instructions. We can do it our way... :P
A reasonable facsimile could be made from cardboard and photos or even making a carved instrument panel assuming the scale is large enough. My 1/144 scale model would just be a blackened hole will few details other than a seat and paper instrument panel. Dreams for another day as our mugginess continues for now and the next several days. Paint refuses to dry and sanding dust clings to everything.
Lou
Lots to consider. But a start. In the meantime I can sympathize with Lou and the weather. I'm trying to paint my Mariner in similar hot muggy conditions. But am faced with the problem of my masking tape pulling paint off!!!!!
Cliff.
Following recommendations from various members I tried using talc powder mixed with future. Time will tell if this will work out. So far where used on bare wood the future just absorbs into the wood and leaves a sandable surface of fairly hard white powder. Once sanded it takes paint well. When applied to a prepainted surface it leave the same power, but the future stays on top to form a slightly harder substance that is still very easy to sand to a very smooth finish. Here we have the remaining residue prior to applying more paint.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10004/DSCF1975.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4533
Only time will tell if paint lifts off at a later time. I would not try this on a large project until further testing tell me more.
Very interesting idea, Lou. But I guess I'll have to think it over a bit. It's taken so long to get this far that I'll have to leave experimentation for another model. In the meantime I'm back to sanding, bodyfilling and more sanding until I figure I can try to repaint without my newly accepted masking tape - Polyfilm M - pulling paint off. And that's what I've been doing and maybe this will be considered to comprise my Ping.
Cliff.
The second CF-100 has been completed. The first being the Mk1 I made some time ago. Approx 20 hours was used to make this "Small Gem"
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10004/normal_CF-100_1-144_Multi.JPG)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10004/normal_CF-100_Mk_3.bmp)
A third has been started but not even placed on the Priority 3 list yet.
Great work, Lou.
It is very difficult to get a model that is this tiny, painted silver, and photographed, to look so nice. Your surface prep came out great.
Ken Pugh
Thanks Ken, I am now using future wax with talc added for thickening. it works for me. Now for a larger scale tryout.
Lou