Well I guess I'll join in for this one. At least with the fuzzy pictures from the tv commercial anything is open to imagination🤪
Fraser
I have moved the original post to the group build board so we can post our finished models to a common site. I hope others will join us.
Looks great Fraser. Your part breakdown by cutting top/bottom and side/side is something I have not done in a long time. It sure saves on chiseling time. My title is based on my third Flight of Fancy project. Photos attached on the Mk I and Mk II. I like the idea of sharing our tittle.
Lou
Some progress today either the fuselage. Kind of fun working on this what if model. Except for cutting out the major parts with a scroll saw, I've only used a knife, gouge and a sanding stick. Smallest fuselage I've worked on so far.
Here the model is mocked up with paper tail feathers. Next I will carve out the cockpit and inlets. Second picture of the wing with the shadow method to see how the contour is looking. I think I'm going to cut the wing in half to set the dihedral then inset it into the fuselage.
Shaping up nicely Fraser.
Lou
Coming along nicely Fraser.
Gordon
Thanks.
To get the Dihedral of the wing correct, I cut partially through the centreline and cracked it over a dowel. I placed it over a metal square and use magnetics to hold the tips down. I used UV cured adhesive in the joint and it was structurally sound in about 10 seconds of curing with the UV light.
The same technique was used on the V fins.
To glue the wings to the fuselage, I carved out the wing mounting area to fit. Carpenter glue was used to bond the wing in place but.... While holding the wing in place by hand, I applied a drop of UV adhesive at the joints to act as a clamp while the glue died. It worked really well.
Fraser
Coming along nicely Fraser.
Cheers
Gordon
Showing excellent promise Fraser.
I have never used that UV drying glue. How do you find it and how secure are the parts?
Lou
It seems very strong. I'll go make some test parts to try and illustrate it. The parts I'm using on are very secure. I used it on the Beaver to secure the brass landing gear legs and floats on. It allowed the work to move along quickly.
Here is where I got my resin on the west coast.
https://canada.michaels.com/en/blue-moon-studio-uv-resin-craft-hard-type-resin-0.85oz/10627464.html
Also the little uv flashlight
https://canada.michaels.com/en/blue-moon-studio-uv-resin-craft-12-led-uv-flashlight/10665684.html
Searching for UV resin on Amazon.ca also produces lots of results.
Fraser
with the right mold, I suppose one could make wheels, engine cylinder and the like. I await the completion of the project to further evaluate the resin option.
Lou
Continued progress on the FOF3. Attached the winglets and V stab assembly using the UV cured resin.
For the winglets, I carved them from basswood and finished shaping with a dremel sander. Given the size and shape, it was like carving a fingernail... Holding them in place with a long self clamping tweezer and using the UV resin allowed me to position and bond them without any fuss.
To attach the V stab, i used a refined holding fixture. I used a 8"x11" 1/4" thick steel plate I had hidden in the shop. (Some how stuff usually becomes useful) i printed off a grid and secured it to the plate with four 5/16" dia rare earth magnets. I keep a bunch of these on the side of my tool box as they always come in handy for various projects. I fashioned two angle blocks set to the dihedral of one stab relative to level. I drilled a 5/16" hole in the base of the block and drilled a through hole to fit a drift rod. The magnet was a thumb press fit into the block and the drift rod can be used to remove the magnet from the block afterward.
A couple of wood shims under each wing and larger 3/4" magnets placed on top of each wing of the model securely held it to the plate. The angle blocks were positioned to hold the stab in place. A drop of UV adhesive was applied inside the V to secure it to the fuselage. It cures so fast, but because it needs the UV light, the desired timing of the bond is easy to achieve opposed to CA glue which is all or nothing .
The glue is quite viscous and fill gaps nicely. It also self bonds with the following adhesive layers so the joint can be built up as needed to form a strong fillet. The resulting joint was cured in less than minute and was able to support the weight of the model when held immediately after.
So on to primer and final sanding soon. Also I am going to try and vacuum form a windshield for the open cockpit. More on that later.
Regards,
Fraser
BTW. I used a website called https://www.blocklayer.com to make the graph paper. It has a great number of calculators and customizable graphics for everything from printable custom graph paper, scaleing rules, protractors and such to spacing of pickets and roof rafter calculations. Its a fun, interesting and useful too!
Fraser
That is nice to have clamping device. I just hold it in place until the glue dries enough.
Lou
Have started the painting of the model: wood - grey automotive primer - black vallejo primer . Im going to try an aluminium paint finish which looking at the commercial is darker and dulled down.
fraser
Coming along nicely. Silver/metallic finished do not photograph well.
Lou
Quote from: lastvautour on November 10, 2021, 09:11:26 PM
with the right mold, I suppose one could make wheels, engine cylinder and the like. I await the completion of the project to further evaluate the resin option.
Lou
I may have an answer on the holding strength of the UV adhesive. During shelf cleaning, a crystal mouse I had repaired was accidentally dropped from about 6 feet onto a laminate floor. I had previously attached the two ears, metal tail and the base with the UV adhesive. It is shaped like a faceted ball with a flat base. The mouse popped off the base where it was bonded on a triangular area about 1/4" on a side. The ears and tail remained bonded even though they were much smaller areas. I suspect I did not clean the failed joint adequatly during the repair. The mouse is larger than a golf ball and weighs 5 oz! So i think it passed the drop test :D
Fraser
Looking great so far Fraser.
Gordon
Well I have a vacuum forming post that I think will be better served in a separate thread, so I will create one.
So please go to " Vacuum forming tool construction, materials and technique " for the posts on the vacuum forming tools and technique I have experimented with.
Regards,
Fraser
So I have completed the FOF3.
This model was a great learning experience for me as I did a few firsts. I made an open cockpit with a carved pilot figure and a vacuum formed plastic windshield. I use the UV resin for many of the assemblies and tried for an over all aluminium looking finish. Plus this was a fictional model that allowed a bit of creative liberty in the design.
I used a Dremel to create the cockpit. I have found that the carbide round nosed 1/8 cutter is the most controllable for me. It did not tend to grab with the rounded nose. An instrument panel was made using a brother P-touch label maker with white lettering on black tape . Using the smallest font, I made a double row of four O's to look like gauges. I trimmed the tape to fit and it seemed to work out well.
Since this is the first airborne model, it had to have a pilot.
The pilot figure is a bust that I carved using the Dremel and small burrs. I basically mounted a small length of 1/4 inch hardwood dowel stuck to the end of another length of 5/16 dowel to use as a handle. So I carved what in hoped was a passable head and shoulders and painted it with the smallest brushes I could find. It was actually a lot of fun making the little pilot for this project.
I then made a small base from scrap walnut and a length of 1/8 stainless steel rod I found. Drilling the mounting hole in the bottom of the model was actually a bit nerve wracking to start out with. Of course I had visions of it grabbing and flinging across the shop, but that was not the case. This was probably as a result of the cut in my thumb that I got from an errant metal plate grabbing the bit on my drill press during another recent project ( yes I let my guard slip against my better judgement and did not clamp the piece down....my bad)
For the canopy I vacuumed formed one from a clear plastic dinner plate. The process is described in the separate post on vacuum forming. I attached it using the UV adhesive. The next one should go better....
I liked the look of no propeller stopped In mid air, but I did not make a disk either. Part of the FOF3 was to imagine that perfect nearly invisible blur of a polished aluminium prop.
Anyways it was a fun model to build and after I completed it, I see that there was an all electric plane that set a speed record for electric flight. It looks very close to the FOF3 but with a conventional tail and closed cockpit. Maybe another project in the future. No need to model exhaust stacks....
Regards
Fraser
An excellent result . Well Done Fraser .
Gordon
Fraser, that is a magnificent replica of the aircraft shown on the commercial. Congratulations.
Lou
PS. May I post your unique creation at various Facebook groups. I am sure it will appreciated by all.
Yes of course you can post the pictures. Let me know which groups you post it on as I'd like to check out the sites too.
Fraser
Will do.
Lou
I posted here https://www.facebook.com/groups/CanadianScaleModellers and here https://www.facebook.com/groups/2088090321299685
Lou
Here and https://www.facebook.com/groups/367296544077400 and here https://www.facebook.com/groups/2617036488542642
Lou
And also on flickr photo hosting site at https://www.flickr.com/photos/8416077@N08/?