Finished the Strombecker Thunderstreak yesterday. Although the instructions describe the jet as an F84-F, the model came with the narrow fuselage of the earlier straight-wing F84-G Thunderjet and the swept wings of the later F84-F Thunderstreak. This combination of parts would actually make it the prototype Thunderstreak; the YF96. The kit still had the decals in it but I assumed they wouldn't work after 55 years, so I used decals from a modern F84-G kit and Woodland Scenics dry transfers.
Excellent model. The various shades of silver are awesome.
Lou
Wow! Very nice Strombecker Thunderjet!
What did you use to mask the cockpit? Did you use a wax/water "solution" for the final finish?
Again, great job.
Joe
Thanks for the compliments, I used Tamiya masking tape to mask the canopy and the different metallic shades on the surface. I used three different shades of Tamiya spray paint to get variation in the different panels. You have piqued my curiosity, what is a "water and wax" finish? Is that what was used before we started importing Japanese spray paint?
Very nice work on the metallic finish, Paul.
That certainly is a wonderful finish. As much as you can tell us about your method would be a great help.
I, for one, wouldn't know where to begin.
Cliff
I am no expert on metallic finishes but I do know that the most important part is surface preparation. Any surface irregularity will show in the final finish. I used many coats of primer sanding down to 320 grit between coats until I couldn't see the grain anymore. After the final coat of primer I sanded down to 600 grit. 600 grit is adequate for spray paint, but if airbrushing probably 1000 or even 1200 might be needed. The most convincing metallic finishes I've seen were accomplished with special paint that is intended to be buffed after application, I've never tried them myself though.
Hi, Paul,
Imsjim wrote the following of his beautiful Strombecker B-24J restoration: "I sprayed the model with Future floor wax to get a smooth finish to put the decals on. It took about 4 coats to get the gloss coat I wanted." The topic is covered in several other exchanges. I have never tried this and, thus, my aluminum/silver finishes do not have the nice satiny sheen that his do. It looks like yours has the same or similar effect. Hence my question. I finish sanding with 400 grit and then go over the sanded surfaces with extra fine steel wool.
I am aware of only one Tamiya gloss aluminum/silver spray paint: Tamiya Spray Paint TS-17. Are there others or did you do some mixing? If you look at the finish on my restored Strombecker F-86 on my Project Board, you can see the result I get without using any clear coat or Future floor wax finish. I plan to do some experimentation with the technique.
Regards,
Joe
Hi Joe, the Tamiya sprays I used were: AS-12, TS-17, and TS-83. I used them straight out of the can, although I have heard of people decanting the spray into jars so that they can mix and airbrush the stuff. I haven't tried that, maybe next time. P.S. I like your Sabre, I wish I had one.
Paul, I guess at this time I'm particularly impressed by your canopy. Is it painted or is it in fact a plastic canopy?
Cliff.
Hi Cliff, the canopy is plastic and came with the kit. It is a lot thicker than you would see in a modern kit and has some air bubbles in it but hasn't yellowed any.
Thanks Paul. I admit that it looked plastic. But, on the otherhand it sort of looked solid and painted. The latter is a method that I've got to do and am looking for any tips.
Cliff
Hi,
Thanks for the information on both the paint and the masking tape. I have already ordered both. I have another "disreputable" Strombecker jet that is begging for restoration and that paint looks like it will be perfect.
Thanks, again, for the information AND I think you did a magnificent job on this Strombecker. As you probably know, I am a real fan of these vintage models: I am delighted to see them survive and thrive in the hands of craftsmen like you.
Joe
Simply beautiful Paul,the finish is excellent and would put a plastic model to shame !
Barry.
A wonderful model Paul. Certainly as close to perfect as I could ever imagine. But, as I'm having a lot of trouble painting in silver, I was wondering if using a Tamiya product you have experienced any "rubbing off" of the silver on removing your masking tape.
Cliff
Hi Cliff, I've never had a problem with Tamiya spray paint lifting or rubbing off. I usually let the paint cure over-night before puttting any tape on it. I also use low-tack tape for masking. Tamiya makes its own brand of tape that is very good. It is not very sticky but it does cut and burnish down well at the edges and can be stretched a little bit to get it straight on compound curves. I've also used blue painter's tape from 3M, its not quite as nice but it is a lot cheaper and can be found in hardware stores. You can make it less sticky by applying it first to the palm of your hand a couple of times to get some of the glue off.
Thanks Paul,
I've been trying Testor's Enamel airbrushed but have been advised to clear coat over top. However NOT just to apply any Gloss clear top coat but either Dullcoate #1160,1260 or Glosscoate #1161 or 1261. So far I've used only a Flat clear coat on the botom of one but it has come out looking too "steel". Is Tamiya's enamel or acrlic?
Cliff
The Tamiya spray cans smell like they are laquer based, and on the cans that have english labels they list acetone as one of the solvents. So, if I were you I would NOT use Tamiya spray paint on top of an enamel paint. I once used Tamiya spray paint on top of Humbrol enamel and it turned out like cottage cheese. I've used Tamiya spray paint over Tamiya and Polly-S acrylics but only after letting them cure thourgholy and then applying mist coats at first. Generally, when I'm using Tamiya spray paint it is the first layer on top of the primer.
Thanks very much,Paul. Its questions like these - the proper application of metallic and silver paints - that much has been written about and which should be addressed by a group such as ours in order to come up with some kind of satisfying definitive opinion.
Thanks again.
The Testors Dullcote and Glosscoat are also lacquer. It's been a long time since I've used Testors enamel, but I recall their advice on the overcoats was to do a light mist, let that dry, and then put on a slightly heavier coat. The first one acts as a barrier, though if the second one is too thick, you can still have too much solvent, and that will take up your enamel. I've used Testors Dullcote over enamel before; I just put down a few thin coats, and didn't have problems with the enamel underneath cracking or bubbling.
I use acrylics now, and for the most part, I haven't had problems with spray lacquer clear coats over them.
Garet
Thanks to you also Garet, I've been in the process of asking just about everyone I can think of as to the best way to handle silver Testors enamel. Everyone seems to have a different experience. The problem is that I want to mask the cabin of a B29 - among other things - and, as you know, that's a lot of masking. At the moment I'm considering painting my six pink or blue or something like that. But anything but silver! (Perhaps my frustration is beginning to show.)
Cliff.
My last flying balsa model has been stalled for over 10 years because of a silver finish!
Garet
Quote from: cliff strachan on February 04, 2010, 10:56:05 PM
Thanks to you also Garet, I've been in the process of asking just about everyone I can think of as to the best way to handle silver Testors enamel. Everyone seems to have a different experience. The problem is that I want to mask the cabin of a B29 - among other things - and, as you know, that's a lot of masking. At the moment I'm considering painting my six pink or blue or something like that. But anything but silver! (Perhaps my frustration is beginning to show.)
Cliff.
Cliff,have you considered masking the whole nose with a liquid latex,then cutting through the film to expose the areas that need painting ? I can vouch that it works well on the B-29 nose as I restored a B-29 ID model in similar fashion,all of that biconvex nose is a tad too much for conventional masking tapes etc,just a suggestion for you.
Barry.
Paul,
I have been away for a while and found your F-84 model. You did an outstanding job on it. While I have had limited success using various paints on plastic models i never even thought of trying it on a wooden one. Great for you. I will have to try it on my next mode.
Thanks again you are inspiration.
Jim
Thanks for the hints, Barry. I'm still experimenting. But I did mask a mock up of my B29's nose only out of balsa and masked in the conventional way. It turned out actually pretty good. Then I tripped over the airbrush hose, fell down voicing the appropriate expressions, and had to repair a damaged nose! Good grief!
Cliff.