Welcome to SMM Fraser. You may use this subject post for you submissions.
Lou
Fraser's first submissions are his nicely done Sopwith Camel and progress photo of his Mosquito.
Lou for Fraser aka Gearup.
Well done ! Looking forward updates on the Mosquito
Gordon
Well, I am still working on the mosquito. Waiting for the weather to warm a bit so my shop heater can keep up and allow me to paint. I'll have some more pictures soon when I start to put a bit of color on the model.
Thanks for the updates. I too, look forward to your progress photos.
Lou
Looking good!
Well I've given up on the weather to warm up a bit, so I think it is warm enough in the shop to start painting. Here goes the start of the green camouflage on the mosquito.i used the spoon as a test for the airbrush to see if the flow is good. Also since they are a compound curved 3D styrene plastic, they are also good to try out masking techniques. I am using a 500 watt equivalent LED work light. Nice hard bright white light and it stays cool to the touch too.
Looks great. Send more pictures. What type of wood did you use?
Lou
Hi Fraser
Looks very good. I see you control surface lines are very crisp looking. Do you mind if I ask which tool you use to scribe the lines? I'm still struggling with obtaining crisp lines like you have.
-ken
it is spruce that I try to pick out at the Home Depot. Looking through the stacks will generally produce at least one nice, light, tight grain, dry quarter-sawn 1x6 free enough of knots.
For scribing the lines I watched a YouTube video "Creating scribed detail". The author uses dental tools but I tried another tool. I used a 4/0 fishhook modified and fitted into a exacto style blade holder. I pinched the barb down with pliers, straightened it slightly then cut it off from the shank. The hook tip is actually triangular in cross section. If you then take and work the tip against a fine sharpening stone you will end up with a triangular facet. I used 0.003" brass cut to strips as a straight edge that was attached to the model with painters double-sided tape. A light touch works really well.
Looking good. Regards Paul J.
Excellent work!
Gordon
Thank you. Here is a picture of the remaining piece of wood for the next project. It's 7 inches wide and the grain is absolutely straight on the length. Probably spruce. The growth rings average about 25 per inch
Canopy masking experiment. I Used a Silhouette Cameo 3 cutter to creat 0.050" tape strips. The tape is applied to wax paper and the cutter blade depth is set to cut the tape but not the wax paper. A 2"x12" strip of scotch 233+ tape produced 16 feet of strips. The blue paint is just a brushed test color. I still have to figure what color to use for the "glass".
Great idea.
Lou
Hi Fraser
Thanks for the reply on scribing the lines. I've tried the dental tool approach, but it doesn't seem to work too well on pine if the grain is not uniform or if you need to go cross grain such as at the ends of the control surfaces. I'll have to try the fish hook approach.
Greatly appreciated - ken
Masking..doing it a bit backward as I should have done the underside grey first. Oh well.
Re the scribing, I had a few coats of high build primer and tried to barely score through it. It did work nicely even when the scribe line is not parallel to the grain direction. I guess the point is to try and scribe the paint while avoiding the actual wood underneath until a good line is established.
Thanks for the progress reports. It is nice to follow the progression of a project.
Lou
Masking. Layered painters tape over wax paper to act as a peelable backing.. Using an old film slide-sorter light-box, i traced over a full size paint scheme onto the tape. Cut the mask out and filled in the gaps. I plan on painting it with the invasion stripes over the camo layers. That's the way the paint scheme was applied in the field.
Nicely done. Looking forward to the completion.
Lou
The mosquito gets its invasion stripes. I have a few paint scars that need touch up. I think I have an adhesion issue with some spots over the primer. The regular painters tap did lift a few spots. I suspect not adequately cleaned of finger prints. So now onto markings and canopy.
Lovely camouflage work. I look forward to further pictures.
Lou
Looking good Fraser.
Gordon
Rondels painted on upper wing done, now for the fuselage sides. Those could be more challenging with four rings and four colours.
Nicely done markings.
Thanks. Seeing some color really starts to bring the model alive.
Well, I have a bit of downtime after a very busy spring. So I thought I'd tackle the type C1 side rondel.
The circle masks were cut using a Silhouette Cameo machine and the Silhouette design studio software. Designing was easy; four concentric circles at a ratio of 3:4:8:9 and resizing the group to scale.
The blue masking material is "removable" vinyl and is cut on the machine. The square mask was applied first. The circle was then painted white as a bas color. Using the small brush I painted around the outer diameter about 2 mm wide. The inside line can be a bit messy but try to maintain the isthmus minimum 2 mm. Let dry.
Now I removed the large ring from the backing paper and applied it over the yellow paint making sure it was concentric to the outer mask. The yellow will still be visible on the inside of this ring. To ensure no blue bleed through onto the yellow, I painted over the ringed mask inner edge with yellow to seal the edge. Put the smallest circle mask concentric to the other masks. Paint white over the inner and outer edges of the this mask and let dry.
Paint the blue between the large ring and the outer edge of the small ring and then paint the red centre. Peal off the masks and that should be it.
Consider the rings are only 1 mm wide, so the mask is a bit finicky to place but the vinyl can be moved and placed several times and it maintained its shape and sharp edge
Fraser
for some reason the picture is upside down, but it still works ;)
Excellent work on the markings Fraser, regards Paul J.
Thanks. Here are pics of the mask removal and lettering underway on the fuselage. Few touch-ups to do. I may have to start taking fuzzier pictures...the hard light I'm using makes it look a bit rough. At least thats the theory ;).
Fraser
That's fantastic work; thank you for sharing your technique with us.
I enjoy the problem solving when building the models.
Excellent workmanship.
Hello All.
I recently came across several very nice wooden models in North Bay Ontario at the local museum. Cessna 180, otter, Norsemen, Dash7, CHAMP 7ac, piper cub, canadair cl415, T33 and CF 100. They were hung in pairs to a six foot long pole and suspended from a shaft from the ceiling. The visitor could push a button causing the rig to spin and the speed could be controlled as well with appropriate sound. As they moved in the circle above, the propellers windmilled rather convincingly. Great display!
The models were very well made. I asked the reception who made them, but she didn't really know.
. Can anyone verify the builder?
Do you have pictures?
Lou
If do but I am having problems with photo attachments. Any ideas.
Chances are they are to large. email them to me. Check my member's profile for the address.
Lou
Here is another try at uploading the pictures.
Very well made solid models at the North Bay Ontario museum. Any ideas on the maker?
Fraser
Thank you for your photos. I would dearly love to have that CF-100.
Lou
A bit of progress on the mosquito project. Working on the propeller blades.
Here is a process that I am using to make the blades. I made a die cutter to provide blanks for the blades from Popsicle sticks. The die cutter is comprised of two single sided razor blades given a curve. They are relatively easy to bend but remember - these are razor blades! The blades are placed with the arcs opposed and the ends together. The two blades are held together using zap straps however the ends could be soldered in the future versions. Now you have a die cutter.
Place the die cutter on top of the Popsicle stick and set them on a block of wood. I am lucky to have a small arbor press that allows for a more controlled application of force to the cutter. It works equally as well using a hammer to give the die cutter a light blow to cut the blank.
You now have a nice consistent blade blank to work with. I next used a chisel to cut the tip of the blades to length. Then using a backstop as described in a post by Model Maker (5 February 2017) I used a 3/4 inch chisel to cut the blade profile on one side then flipped it over to do the same on the other. A bit of filing and sandpaper to round the tip and smooth the blades for primer.
For the root of the blade, this particular profile allowed the sharp root to fit a 3/32 hole to anchor the blade ( as seen by the blade holder in the pictures). I will be drilling three equidistant holes in the spinners on the model. Of course I should have planned these holes first, but oh well....
Using the little jewellers vice really helped in handling the small blades for sanding.
Hope you find this die cutter technique useful.
Fraser
picture of die cutter
Great idea Fraser, thanks for the tutorial. Regards Paul J.
Started on the landing gear for the mosquito. I really like the clean look of the aircraft with the gear ups, but I also want to have the model displayed with the gear down. At the same time, I don't want the gear drilled into the bottom of the nacelle. What i am intending to do, is have the gear act more as a stand for the model so it van be viewed either way. I still need to make the doors but they will be attached to the gear assembly. We'll see how that alll works out.
Attached are pictures of the fabrication of the gear struts.
I cut the 3/16 tube to length then inserted the lower leg into the tube and squashed it to an oval ever the lower leg. I flattened one end of the lower legs and drilled a .050 hole for the axel. I did the same for the aft braces and added a small bevel to the other end. I located three points on the plane and drilled hoes for the .050 wire pins to complete a soldering jig. When cleaned and fluxed, a bit of heat from the torch and a drop of solder held everything together. I still have a bit of cleanup and file work, but it has been a lot of fun making the gear.
Fraser
Nice job Fraser. Regards Paul J.
Thanks. I just realized I gave the wrong drill size. It is a #58 (.042"). This gives a nice fit for the .040" wire. A small center drill was used to provide a starting point for the #58 drill as it will definitely wander.
Looking forward to more progress.
Lou
Coming along very nicely Fraser.
Gordon
There is a saying about wood working "I sand, sand, sand until there is no wood left" Well, I stopped sanding and here is the mosquito as I have finished it. i hope you enjoy the pictures.
second set
3rd set
Very nice indeed Fraser, all that sanding was worth the effort. Regards Paul J.
In a word WOW ! Well done Fraser Excellent work.
Cheers
Gordon
Wonderful Mossie. Congratulation on such a fine build.
Lou
What scale is your Mossie?
Lou
The wingspan is 13" which works out to 1:48 scale. It seems to be a manageable scale forme to work with.
Thanks, Fraser
for glass color,i found the metalic marking pens from crayolo and others,i use the blue or green one and it comes out pretty good,besides the traditional black
I'll have a try with a paint pen as well. Thanks
Fraser