Oh, I almost forgot: I usually use light gauge wire for the "X"- or cross-bracing wires between the fore-and-aft interplane struts and drag wires, as well as the center-section and undercarriage struts (when I do rig them). I use bits of old banjo strings for the wires. Any light-gauge music wire will do.

Thank you Jim.

Lou

The model for the model...

At long, long last, I have something to contribute. The aircraft is a German two-seater Rumpler C-IV; a late model C-IV, as distinguished by the lack of a propeller spinner. I borrowed the color scheme from the machine depicted on the cover of the eponymous Windsock Datafile publication. Tried to get the impression of pilot and observer communicating together.

I was a long time between contributions here, owing to a catastrophic failure in between. I had been working on a Hannover CL-II two-seater and was into the final assembly process when the lozenge-fabric decals that entirely covered the wings and fuselage began disintegrating. I'd fix one spot, and two others would fall apart. I finally lost patience and regretfully threw the whole works in the trash: six months' work down the craperoo! Oh well, a little lesson in humility...

The helpful suggestions from our brothers here enabled me to get this model finished today. Thank you, gentlemen. Hope you like...

I usually use monofilament fishing line — the real light 2-4 lb. test stuff used for fly fishing leader tippets. Just paint them silver or aluminum after installation.

I may have asked before, however, what do you use for rigging?

Lou

Well, thanks you for your help, gentlemen. I tried giving it the gentle hair dryer treatment, and that seems to have done the trick. I'm always anxious about using heat for fear of loosening up the glue and causing even worse trouble. But now I can attack the decals without fear, and will soon be sharing the results with you.
Thanks again, friends. 

In future, you may consider using an acrylic clear coat.  I have great success with them.  If you are concerned with smoothness of the coat, just do a couple of coats with light sanding after each dries and cures.  Read the instructions to make sure you are doing it right by the manufacturer.  Acrylic does cure and not just dry.  The instructions will cover what you need to know.

The best clear finish I have used is Minwax Polycrylic.  I get no yellowing over time with any acrylic clear I have used and they are very durable, protecting the model from handling damage.

The seats are installed and the rigging has begun. I am using a 50lb test braided fishing line painted with steel acrylic paint.

Lou

I have had some success with adding a mist coat. I don't know if the underlying coat dried or if the top coat just covered the tacky area. Let us know how things work out for you.

Lou