I will make HAWER "HART" at 1/72 scale according to the production article of "SCALE MODEL AIR CRAFT" by J.H. STEVENS that I got a long time ago. 1/72 matches the scale of the SKYBIRDS kit.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=811.0;attach=7829;image
I cut materials for fuselage by the method of "J.H. STEVENS".
The others are "My method" to make the fuselage separately on the left and right.
Nice to see progress photos Kenji.
Lou
I like the doweled pinned fuselage halves.
Fraser
Fraser, Thanks.
With the method of dividing into left and right, it is possible to draw the side shape of the fuselage inside.
The side shape is retained even after cutting the plane shape. Paper pattern is coated with superglue from the back side for reinforcement.
The rectangle opened on the paper pattern is for aligning with the reference line.
kenji
I cut material for fuselage by the method of "J.H. STEVENS".
It's an orthodox method, but it's difficult to get an accurate right angle. The center line drawn on the fuselage disappears by cutting.
Thank you for the progress report.
Lou
Putting the pattern inside the model halves is a great idea!
Fraser
Thanks, Fraser
The tip of the fuselage is a circle.
Glue a thin plastic plate to make this part accurately and for protection. Then I shaped the fuselage.
I like the details of your build.
Lou
Great idea using the plastic disc.
Gordon
Thanks, Lou, Gordon
The airfoil of "Hawker Hart" is RAF 28. The maximum wing thickness is 30-40% on the upper wing surface and 20-30% on the lower wing surface. Mark this position on the wood.
In "My method", the groove of the propeller shaft can be easily carved.
It is easier to work by sticking it on the work table with double-sided tape to scrape the thin wings.
Sticking sandpaper on a wooden board will speed up your work.
I also love using a chisel for carving wings. I will try the double sided tape idea. Thank you.
Lou
Fill the two slots with glue, and fix the centre section of the wing hard on to the board with a strip of cloth and drawing pins.
Thank you for posting Kenji. Looks great.
Lou
I like to sharpen propellers. I'm using a knife called "Kuri-Kogatana" for scooping.
It cuts well, so I scooped up my index finger.
In "SCALE MODEL AIR CRAFT", it is written that the wheels are made of wood, rubber rings, and aluminum plates.
When I searched for a rubber ring in the shop, I found an "O-ring". An item of the same size as the drawing was sold for about $ 1. How lucky I am!
A cut finger is always part of the hobby. I have not used "O" rings yet but many other modelers have done so.
I hope you heal fast.
Lou
Thanks, Lou
I also glued my fingers with instant glue (really). Of course, it's for medical use.
The boards of the tail wings are really thin, so it was better to sand them than to cut them with a knife.
Nicely done.
Lou
I had a 1mm "Nickel silver" wire, so I made "Interplane strut" and "Shock strut".
Looks great.
Lou
Nice work with the wire. I find it difficult to get nice bends in steel wire.
Also I think of the bleeding on the model the equivalent of the laser hologram marks of authenticity of expensive clothes. No one can make a forgery of your models ;) !
Fraser
Thanks, Lou, Fraser
As you say, nickel silver is hard. Bend the nickel silver wire firmly and then put it back. Attach the wire to the double-sided tape and sand it.
The shock absorber was made by bending a nickel silver plate.
Very nice work Kenji.
Lou
Thanks, Lou
The propeller was shaped. In the center, a pipe for "Starter dog" is inserted.
Nice looking propeller Kenji. I like seeing your progress photos.
Lou
Thanks, Lou
I apply "Sanding Sealer" to the propeller, sand it with #400 sandpaper, and apply "Sanding Sealer" again.
Spinner are dark wood.
When I was scraping the trailing edge of the lower wing, I made a big scratch. It was repaired with a slightly hard wood (white part).
This white tree is also a "Magnolia obovata". In Japan, this part is called "Shirota". It means "Sap wood".
In Japan, there are still several companies that saw wood for models.
The board in the photo below is 450mm x 150mm x 3mm. This dark part is a heartwood that is easy to scrape.
Very nice propeller Kenji. The good thing about wood modelling is if you make a mistake it is easy to fix.
Lou
Enjoying your updates Kenji.
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks, Lou, Gordon
It is difficult to join the lower wing to the fuselage.
Stick a small mechanical pencil lead on the wing, mark the fuselage, and then drill a hole.
The wooden parts are almost finished.
I like your workmanship. Thank you for posting.
Lou
Looking great so far Kenji.
Gordon
Thanks, Lou, Gordon
I used a method not written in "SCALE MODEL AIR CRAFT".
I made the jig from wood to adjust the upper and lower wings, struts and other parts.
Jigs for the upper and lower wings have not been placed yet.
The base is a wooden box of cookies.
Coming along nicely.
Lou
Thanks, Lou
I made a support strut and wheels.
These were small and had a hard time.
Very nice Kenji.
Lou
Thanks, Lou
Difficult to determine the position of the undercarriages on fuselage.
The left and right positions are out of order!
Looks good from this angle.
Lou
I enjoy your construction methods Kenji. You have great skill in your modelling.
Fraser
Enjoying your progress Kenji.
Gordon
Thanks, Lou, Fraser, Gordon
Little by little, I'm working on it.
The 1933 text does not mention struts and wheels.
I tentatively soldered a brass pipe to determine the wheel spacing.
I cut a brass pipe and put "Support strut" on it.
Kenji
Congratulation on a very realistic undercarriage.
Lou
How did you form the nice airfoil shape of the axel fairing?
Fraser
Nicely done Kenji.
Gordon
Thanks, Lou, Fraser, Gordon
The answer to Gordon's question.
I got a nickel silver thin plate from a friend of a model railroad maker, so I used it.
There is a merit that silver painting can be omitted. The figure below shows the procedure for "Axel fairing".
Patiently shape it with a spatula and then file it.
Kenji
It is always nice to see there are many ways to get the effect needed. I would not have thought of folded sheet!
Fraser
Thanks, Fraser
This time, I used a nickel silver thin plate, but it is easier to make an aluminum thin plate.
In the case of aluminum, a slightly thicker plate is easier to handle.
Kenji
Thank you for the tutorial on making the airfoil shape.
Lou
Thanks, Lou
Position the upper and lower wings using a jig. The jig is also made of wood.
I set struts temporarily.
The jig certainly would make the alignment of the wings easier. Good idea to glue them to a sheet of wood for stability
Fraser
Thanks, Fraser
Apply the sanding sealer twice and polish with water sandpaper.
The book says to apply Woodfiller.
The filler is only if you need to hide the wood grain.
Your Siskin is coming along very well.
Lou
Looking good Kenji. Beautiful work.
Gordon
Thanks, Lou, Gordon
About half a century ago, in Japan, a stone powder called "Tonoko" was used to hide the grain of wood.
Kenji
Apply "lacquer surfacer" twice thickly with a brush and polish it with water sandpaper.
After this work, apply the surfacer again.
Kenji
Very nice finish.
Lou
I agree with Lou ab out the finish. It covers the dark wood very well. Apparently tonoko is a clay/quartz mix that is available on Amazon.com
Fraser
Thanks, Lou, Fraser
The wood grain of "Magnolia obovata" used for solid models in Japan is not noticeable.
Until the early 1950s, "Tonoko" was used.
Later, it became common to protect the surface of the wood with "Transparent Lacquer", apply the "lacquer surfacer" used for metal undercoating on it, and sand it with water sandpaper.
Kenji
Thank you for the clarification Kenji.
Lou