Once I finished a major multi-year project I was finally able to get back to things that have been neglected. One of those projects was the Fireball XL-5. I have never seen the series, a British puppet series in black and white. I mainly became interested in the subject while studying the website of Martin Bower.
Martin Bower is a British model-maker whose work you have probably seen without knowing it. Check out his website for some great construction pics.
http://www.martinbowersmodelworld.com/ (http://www.martinbowersmodelworld.com/)
Photos will follow shortly. The model is progressing slowly because I have to rebuild our kitchen floor, a great challenge considering my disability problems. This project would have been much easier if I had a lathe big enough, but I am doing it the hard way, carving a cylinder by hand. At least I have some experience with carving cylinders with my submarine build.
Ken Pugh
Supercar inspired me to design a whole series of crafts. I even had a control line flying model that I designed and flew for quite a while before a disastrous landing. A youth well spent!!
Lou
Let's not forget the famous song that goes with it. ;D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3yN6WfpaUQ&feature=PlayList&p=CAD39962A9DA5C5D&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=7 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3yN6WfpaUQ&feature=PlayList&p=CAD39962A9DA5C5D&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=7)
Regarding Marting Bower, I'm still scratching my head when I discovered his site a few years ago, the man looks my age, and I was just a kiddo when those XL5 and Space 1999 shows came out, he must have made those models when he was 8 or something ???
Ben
Thanks Ben.
Lou
Ken I can see why you like these models,this reminds me of my interest in the old 'Eagle' comic with Dan Dare pilot of the future on the cover,every week I would keenly collect my copy of the Eagle and peruse the centre spread cutaway drawings done by the much lamented artist L.Ashwell-Wood,Wood was a genius with the cutaways and a prolific one at that,I actually made some solid models of the Dan Dare spaceships plus some models based on those cutaway drawings,the 'Eage' came about because a certain member of the ecclesiastical cloth was alarmed at the American horror comics hitting the bookstands, and wanted something that the modern boy would be more drawn to,and thus evolved the Eagle ! how times have changed as the computer and allied games took over for instant entertainment.
I have just given myself a time machine nostalgia shot by buying the reprints of those drawings in book form,there is nothing like a bit of nostalgia to stimulate the old grey matter,a bit like this forum really,doing things the way we used to build them before injection moulding came into being,so more power to your space vehicles Ken,I may just recreate a Mekon personal space vehicle myself ! the Mekon a little green man was the arch enemy of Dan Dare with his fleet of space vehicles.
Barry/Balsabasher
Yes, Barry, I think we all have TV shows and movies from the past that have had a significant impact on us. Today's CGI shows are great, but the impact of those old models was tremendous. They are not as convincing as CGI, but I think that is some of the appeal. When you see those models you know it can be done. I really feel sorry for those enslaved by the plastic model. I, too, had that self-imposed limit of "I just can't scratchbuild, that's too hard." One then must wait for someone else to make the model and pay what they demand. Now that I scratchbuild, it's all just a matter of time. There are a lot of scifi models waiting in my mind and they make a great diversion from my main focus, airplanes.
Back to the Fireball. There is a plan out there copyrighted by Philip Rae that is a good starting point for this model. I also found the yahoo group for the Fireball yesterday and there are tons of screen captures that are fantastic. Looking at those pics you will see variations from the main model and the closeup models, so pick out what you want to use and go for it.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fireball/ (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/fireball/)
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/normal_fireball-blueprint.gif)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-3707 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-3707)
Ken Pugh
I finally have enough progress to justify a pic post. The basic tailcone area is built. The rear appendages are cut, trued, pinned and test fitted to the hull. Amazingly enough, they line up well. The real challenge will be to get them glued up then put the front fins in and get all this to line up properly. One step at a time. There is still a lot of shaping left to do in this area. Interestingly, most of the detail of this model is in the tail area. Drilled a small hole in my finger so I decided it was time to quit when I struck blood!
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-3823 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-3823)
Ken Pugh
Nice work Ken. Yahoo groups won't let you see anything unless you join the group.
Lou
Thanks, Lou. That's right, you have to join the group. All you need is a yahoo email address. That group is one of the lists that will sign you up automatically. There is practically no traffic on it, but it is a good resource.
Ken Pugh
I signed up. Some good pictures.
Lou
Lots of time spent smoothing the fuselage. It is now to the point where I can start adding detail.
Ken Pugh
A lot of surface prep has taken place up to this point and pictures would not have shown much. I now have all of the wood parts made, I think. From here I have metal nozzles and plastic grating left to make. Most of the fins are pinned on at this point. Everything that is not silver will not be attached until later.
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4341 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4341)
This thing looks a lot like the Spirit of America land speed record car of Craig Breedlove. I would love to make some of those cars but pictures and drawings are not abundant.
Ken Pugh
Fantastic smooth finish. She is going to be a beauty.
Lou
Thanks, Lou.
She is very smooth, but I won't know how much so until primer and especially when silvered. Of course, it's all just a matter of keeping at it until it's right, something I haven't pursued to completion in a model yet. I need to practice with my new airbrush for the effects I plan on using. It would be nice to cover it in aluminum foil but I think I'll settle for paint. The surface preparation is the same for both so it's good training.
One thing about the Fireball XL5 for any other potential builders. This is a television prop and you have to keep that in mind. There is no totally accurate model to follow. Writers have a bad habit of introducing something for a plot and a small model is made for that shot showing the section of detail. Usually it never makes it to the overall model. I also noticed that the paint has changed over the seasons, especially in the color shots. You just have to decide on what you want to build then make it happen. Some shots also show damage to the model that is not repaired. I haven't seen the show so I don't know if that was part of the episode. Whenever there were pyrotechnics I noticed a lot of dust on the model.
Modeling is a great way to learn about the subject and one of its many pleasures.
Ken Pugh
It looks to be a great model Ken. What kind of new airbrush did you settle on? Your remarks concerning modeling as an opportunity to learn about a subject suggests that perhaps our group might also be prepared to offer a bit of history when posting their shots of completed works - especially with respect to group builds and the like.
Cliff.
I went with the Master G233 set. That is a Master G23 with three nozzles and needles, 0.2mm, 0.3mm, and 0.5mm. I got it from TCP Global, a good company with very good prices. They sell everything you need for airbrush painting, and I do mean everything.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/master-performance.aspx (http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/master-performance.aspx)
This choice was based on info from the airbrush tricks website, which was down for quite some time but the forum is still working.
http://theairbrushforum.com/ (http://theairbrushforum.com/)
The guy who owns the site gives away all the secrets. He has a formula for reducer that I use to good effect. I bought my compressor based on his recommendations, the same with this airbrush. He is a professional and owns the Iwata brushes, but he says for most of his work he keeps picking up the Master airbrush because it is easy to use. I like the price; I got the airbrush with three nozzles/needles and a quick disconnect with a throttle valve all for $65. Can't beat that for a good internal mix airbrush. I still haven't messed with it because life has been a roller coaster here at our home. My wife had been out of work for over 6 1/2 months but she finally got a job that she loves. Works out great because the company she worked for is on the verge of collapse.
The original Fireball models had the panel lines airbrushed in and I need to practice some before I spray them. I have been using a Paasche external mix for almost 30 years. That brush still works great and still gets used. Once I get the thinning ratio and air pressure down for this effect, it should go easy.
My compressor is a 2 hp 8 gallon model from Harbor Freight that I picked up for $90. His recommendation was to get the similar model from Sears. It is loud, but I have it in another room with a long hose that reaches to my model area. I love that thing. I was using the Badger compressor all these years. It is quiet but it pulsates since it has no tank, you can't adjust the pressure, and it constantly spits water on your work. I have no such troubles with my current compressor. This setup has made me fall in love all over again with airbrush work. I have to force myself to drag it out instead of taking the easy way out with a brush, but the results are worth it. I am planning on working in very small scales in the future and airbrushed paint makes all the difference with them.
For paints I have been using the cheap craft paints. I find that Delta Ceramcoat works best for me. They are not the greatest but they are consistent and it says right on the label whether the color is opaque or transparent. They seem to be the brand that the craft stores always carries, whereas other brands they shift in and out, probably depending on deals with the company. With whatever paint one chooses it is a matter of learning to use it. They all have their traits that must be catered to and you just have to figure them out and be consistent. With a decent primer and a scuffed surface (Scotchbrite), they adhere just fine and stay where you put them. I just have to remember to scuff my surface after getting it so smooth.
Ken Pugh
Lots and lots of nozzles.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/normal_xl5017.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4421 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4421)
Ken Pugh
Ken, the Fireball is looking better every time you post a picture.
Lou
Thanks Lou,
I shudder to think how it will look once the primer goes on and later when the silver paint hits it. I just hope all works out well.
Ken Pugh
Nice model,Ken. Good luck with the painting. It sure can be a problem-at least I'm having every difficulty imaginable.
Cliff.
The detail is now complete on the rocket. Some drawings show rocket nozzles on the bottom and some pics do not show them. Again, that's the problem with TV/movies, not all the models used at all times are consistent. I decided since it will be on a launch base, I would leave them off.
Now I move to building the base with the launch rails and dolly. Should be fun.
Ken Pugh
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4447 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4447)
Awesome job Ken. I eagerly await the finished model.
Lou
Ken,
Wow, you have added so many little details to the model.
Just reading this thread for the first time and noticed your interest in Craig Breedlove's Spirit of America. You might find it interesting that one version is preserved at Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry. One wonders if they might have any drawings of it. Here's a link to several pages of photos of the museum which include several views of the car. http://www.pbase.com/dwagler/museum
Mark
Thanks a lot, Mark. Those pics help a great deal. I think a good enough model can be made with some good pics and those are the best I have so far. Again, thanks.
Ken Pugh
Finally getting to an update. The launch rails are built and sealed and the launch skid is now in construction. The supports for the rails were a challenge to find a way to build accurately. I finally decided to make some kind of jig, then realized I could just use card stock. The parts are drawn out on the card stock and wood is glued down using glue stick. The glue stick had an added benefit of providing a barrier between the glue used in construction and the paper. After completion, the part peeled off the paper. Any place where the CA glue got through and stuck to the paper was easily separated with a single edge razor blade. I also found it easier to build a long line of supports then separate them later. This gave me a good, uniform, set of parts.
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4588 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4588)
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4585 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4585)
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4586 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4586)
Completed launch rail on base.
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4587 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4587)
This is turning out to be a real nice, different and very interesting model.
Cliff.
Neat trick and excellent results.
Lou
Yes it does indeed work great. For my next trick, smaller pieces. The same type of pieces are used around the launch sled but much smaller. The above pieces are the smallest pre-cut wood I have and I don't think going smaller will work. Instead, they will most likely be wire. Fortunately, I read two books on building small model ships (6 inches long and fully detailed). In it, he used wire for all the ropes and showed the jigs he used. I think that will be the trick needed and great practice.
Ken PUgh
Ken,
Great work! What are the titles of those two books? They sound interesting.
Garet
The gentleman in question is Philip Reed. He has several books but you cannot always find all of them. They are mostly pictures with captions. I have two and probably will not get any more because they cover most everything well enough. I got them on Amazon.
Period Ship Modelmaking An Illustrated Masterclass. This book goes over the construction of Prince de Neufchatel in 1/192, which is half the popular 1/96 scale. He builds two models in this book, one with and one without sails. The one with sails is placed in a sea carved from wood. The hull itself is about seven inches long. His models are fully rigged and he reveals his standard methods for the creation of parts one would normally buy for a ship model.
Building a Miniature Navy Board Model is the second one. This one showcases the building of an admiralty model of the Royal George in 1/192 scale. The model does not have masts or sails but does show the frames planked only in the upper area from the guns up. This ship has many carvings decorating the hull and they are well presented on the model. He shows how he does these carvings.
Philip Reed is the world renowned master at this size and type of ship model. He doesn't use as many special power tools as most ship modelers. Most everything is done by hand and can be done in a small work area. There are some tools and jigs he has made but they are not very hard to reproduce. These books have given me a lot of ideas and put me in the frame of mind to give small models a try. I would love to build small planes that have the appearance of high detail. I think the Japanese have specialized in small models because they have small homes and little storage space. I know they are heavier consumers of 1/144 plastic airplane kits than in North America. When you remember you are looking at detail photos of the models in these books you will appreciate his work even more. These tiny models are built better than most people do in twice the size. They must be truly incredible when viewed in person. There is no reason these techniques could not work in modern ships.
If you have any interest in this size of model, his books are great reference. The site below sells some of his models. Click on sold models to see some of them. The pictures are too small but they do give an idea of what this man does.
http://www.shipmodel.com/artists/phillip-s-reed (http://www.shipmodel.com/artists/phillip-s-reed)
These are the two books I have from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Period-Ship-Modelmaking-Illustrated-Masterclass/dp/1591146755 (http://www.amazon.com/Period-Ship-Modelmaking-Illustrated-Masterclass/dp/1591146755)
http://www.amazon.com/Building-Miniature-Navy-Board-Models/dp/1848320175 (http://www.amazon.com/Building-Miniature-Navy-Board-Models/dp/1848320175)
Ken Pugh
The model is completely built and painting has commenced. Pics will follow.
The silver finish is quite a challenge, especially since I do insist on dropping things on the rocket. I have done this twice now. I painted it with Krylon Matte Aluminum. It came out a very bright silver that looked chrome. Don't know where the matte part comes in. I then coated it with Krylon Satin Chrystal Clear, which turned the finish a very ugly gray. This is really getting annoying. So, I coated it real good with the clear and will try again using a metallic silver acrylic craft paint. The big problem is getting a finish durable enough to allow masking and further painting. I guess I tried to do too good a job on the silver and will now try the cheap paint.
Ken Pugh
Ken,
By far the nicest silver paint I've used where masking is required is SnJ paint. Beware that once the bottle of paint is opened, the paint seems to have a limited shelf life....no matter how tight the cap is. Does a super job though. http://www.skywriters.net/snj.htm
Mark
I have also seen where people have used SNJ powders in Future Floor Wax and got good results. If I ever find any metallic powders at the craft/hobby stores I may give that a try.
One day I will try actually using aluminum foil. My only thought is how to paint on it. I know acrylics don't like to stay on metal without a primer and I am not sure how to mask/prime/paint markings on foil. Yet another avenue to research.
Experimentation will continue. It will be a matter of finding the combination of products that produce the results I need at the price I can pay and are available locally and easily. The journey continues.
Ken Pugh
There are two beautiful examples of aluminum painted solid models added to the gallery this week, a B-17G and a DC-3. It would be great to hear some details on the finishing technique used for those.
Good news and bad news.
Bad news. Using the Krylon Matte Aluminum over Krylon primer and coated with Krylon Crystal Clear is a big problem. The paint flakes up, that's all there is to it. I have covered with acrylic and when I use any kind of tape that is de-stickied, the underlying silver flakes off. I will never use it again.
Good news. The cheap acrylic metallics you can get from the craft stores work just fine. The Anita's Acrylic metallic is a very nice color and works great. If it weren't for the other stuff flaking off underneath it, things would be simple. The flaking has been such a problem that I have considered stripping off all the paint and starting over, but after a year I'm not interested in starting over. I got all the acrylic metallics I might use that were in stock at both our craft stores so I am definitely ready for metallic finishes now.
Ken Pugh
She's done, finally.
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4778 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4778)
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4779 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4779)
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http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4781 (http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pid=4781)
Ken Pugh
As mentioned in the cook-up post, you did a fantastic job.
Lou