I'd like to pull together an annotated tools list based on your experiences. Please post on this topic the sorts of tools you use for building and detailing your models.
Garet
I'll add the tools I've used in the past week for the Ascender (airplane) and the PT-10 (ship):
tools:
- table saw: roughing out stock
- scroll saw: cutting out parts
- electric drill: drilling; turning small round parts
- Swedish (Frost) carving knife: for carving models to shape
- wood chisel (1 inch or 25 mm): for shaping models
- block plane: smoothing/straightening stock before gluing on patterns; carving airfoils
- Stanley-style knife with disposable blades: for carving models; good for cutting straight into a model for step-edges; for cutting out thin basswood
- backsaw: for cutting stock to length
- razor saw (X-Acto style): for cutting small stock to length
- wooden miter box: for use with the backsaw to cut straight across; could be bought or made
- razor saw miter box: for use with razor saw; mine is aluminum
- bench hook: for holding stock while cutting; protect surface of workbench; homemade
- angled-tip tweezers: for moving small parts while gluing, especially with super glue
- safety goggles or glasses: ALWAYS wear when using power tools or superglue
- carpenter's square: I use a small 6-inch version for most models, a 12-inch version when preparing stock or making large models
- steel straightedge: drawing reference lines; as a guide for cutting thin materials; mine has a cork back to keep it from slipping
- clothespins: inexpensive clamps; there are ways to modify them [add photos, descriptions]
- spring clamps: for clamping parts while gluing
- wood vise or pipe clamp: for big clamping needs
- pencil: for drawing reference lines
- sandpaper blocks: general shaping
- emory boards: shaping and smoothing parts
- sandpaper sheets: sanding curves
- sharpening stone, leather strop, and polishing compound: for keeping razor sharp edges on your tools
- plastic circle draughting template: for drawing on guide circles
- diagonal wire cutter: for cutting wires and pins
- small metal file: for smoothing ends of cut wires
- needle-nose pliers: for holding small parts
- butane lighter: for annealing music wire
glues/paints/etc:
- carpenter's glue: gluing up stock, gluing parts of models together
- repositionable paste glue stick: attaching plans to rough stock for cutting
- permanent paste glue stick: attaching plans to rough stock when you want the paper to stay on
- superglue (thin variety): gluing parts together quickly; soak into end grain for strengthening
- lacquer sanding sealer: for sealing wood parts. I use clear nail polish mixed with talc
materials:
- applicator sticks: thin birch dowels
- round toothpicks: small-scale stacks, etc.
- pins: antennas, masts
- music wire, various diameters: antennas, etc.
[I added some items since this was first posted]
1. Bandsaw (cutting out stock and rough model shape)
2. Stanley #299 utility knife for most carving
3. 1/4" and 1/2" chisels
4. Starrett 150mm steel rule
5. A set of 12 jeweler's files
6. 1"-square sanding blocks - various grits
7. Small thumb plane (Stanley #101) for carving airfoils
8. Depth gauge for all sorts of measuring"
9. Dividers
10. A few files and small rasps
11. Block plane
12. Carpenter's glue
13. Duco cement
14. Jewelry maker's pliers
15. Tweezers
All of the above at one point or another except for the Swedish Frost Knife and leather accessories.
Plus
Disk/belt sander 6/4 in (wish it was 8/4"
Planer 12"
Hey Gang,
I'm going to add my two cents to this list, and hopefully will be updating with photos and add ons as I remember.
These are pretty much listed in the order that I use them.
Planning / Layout:
photocopier/printer - for reducing/enlarging drawings to final size. I make lots of copies so I can cut things up and hopefully still have a clean master at the end for reference.
repositionable glue stick - to glue templates/drawings onto wood. The re-positional glue is kinda like yellow sticky notes, it sticks, but you can easily pull it off when done.
soft (4b-6b) pencils - I use these to sketch layout/carving lines onto the model periodically through the process.
Starrett 12" combination square - I use this and a couple of other squares throughout the process, from making sure the top and side views line up before cutting them out of the block to glueing up the tailpane and setting dihedral.
Cutting:
table saw / planer-jointer / handplanes - for reducing larger pieces of lumber into proper sizes for initial blocks. I use mostly scrap (mahogany, walnut, cherry, fir, poplar, etc.) for larger models. For smaller models I use hobby store bass sold in beautifully dimensioned sheets.
band saw/scroll saw - depending on the size of the models I will use either a bandsaw or scroll saw to shape the blocks. I have used a hand fret saw in the past but I find it difficult to keep keep the cut perpendicular to the surface... basically I'm too lazy and have the machines handy. With practice, there is no reason that great results cannot be made with a $10 saw.
chisels - I love chisels when I'm building furniture, but I must admit that I use them infrequently for models. I suspect that I will use them more in the future.
bench hook - a simple holding device that is typically used in conjunction with a chisel. A photo will be worth 1000 words for this on.
jack knife - I love my little "Old-Timer." Most of my carving is done with this one.
Filing / Sanding
Nicholson rasps - No.s 49 & 50. These are expensive about $50 each but they leave a great finish and cut very fast. It's because these work so well that I probably don't use chisels as often as I should.
metal working files - a double cut 1/2 round and a smooth file as well as a set of small files and a set of needle files... I regularly use a dozen or so files :) They're flat so they only hit the high spots and will fair a curve perfectly. And yes Garet, do store them carefully ;) Never let them rub against each other and you will have a perfect set for your carving life. I keep them in canvas or leather rolls.
sanding sticks - I make my own sticks with 1/8" bass sheet and and glue on various grits of Norton sandpaper. Buy good sandpaper as it will last so much longer and cut smoother. I also make shapes such as dowels and curves, with sandpaper glued on, to fit the project.
sand paper - I often use paper that has a fuzzy backing or a 1/4" foam backing as well as typical paper. The ones with the backing conform to curves better and don't get sharp creases. When I use small pieces of paper, I cut them into about 2"x4" rectables and fold them over three times. This way they hold together nicely and you have three fresh faces to work with.
awl - pointy steel device to gently lay out dots to later connect for lines such as rudder or canopy.
Gluing
Five Minute Epoxy - I use this stuff regularly. Buy the stuff from the hobby store in the two bottles rather than the stuff in a syringe or tubes. The bottle stuff is much cheaper in the long run and you can control the amount to mix so much easier. Epoxy has three great strengths. One is simply that it is stronger than wood glue. The next is that it cures rather than drys. Drying means shrinking and that means trouble if your joints aren't perfect. If your wing to fuselage joint is not perfect, the epoxy will fill the gaps. Third, epoxy cures quickly. This is handy for hard to clamp proceedures (and which ones aren't for us) as it is easy to hold together pieces for a couple of min.
CA cyanoacrylites - These crazy glues are great for quick fixes and perfect joints. There is something about these things that I don't trust, but I do use them regularly. Caution: the offgassing can be hazardous and buy the reversing agent for WHEN you glue yourself together!
PVA or yellow wood glue - standard old wood glue. If there was one glue only, I'd choose this one though in reality it is the one I use least now.
To be continued with accompanying pics
Kenny