Jimmy D and me have been talking through messages and he is going to make the Folkerts SK3 so I wanted to introduce him to the cook-up section. Jimmy, here is the link to the racers presented so far.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=83
HEY KENNY, where is that Speed Spitfire?
Lou
Hey Lou,
I've been thinking of that poor ol' beast just yesterday... It's been sitting for over a year with only needing masking and hitting the blue over the silver that I've already sprayed...
Take care guys,
ps
lots of cool stuff hapenning on the boards lately. Great work everybody :-)
Kenny
A cook-up has been nominated and approved (It only takes two builders) and they never end. Let the chips fly Gents ;D
Hello all,
I've been lurking and posting plans for a while and now I guess it's time to join in a cookup. My project will be the Hansen Baby Bullet # 2, NR282W, which raced in 1932-1933. I am building a full-scale replica of this airplane so a little one will help me visualize the color scheme and other details.
Chris
Glad to have you aboard. I look forward to your first photos.
Lou
Balsabasher is cooking up a Caudron Typhon.
(http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee288/karinos200/2008/cantacuzino_clip_image008.jpg) This is an image I found on line.
here is Pete's contribution to the Racer Gook Up. His supermarine S-6B is coming along nicely.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/thumb_IMG_0399.JPG)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/thumb_IMG_0408.JPG)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/thumb_IMG_0401.JPG)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/thumb_IMG_0412.JPG)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/thumb_IMG_0410.JPG)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/thumb_IMG_0414.JPG)
Some rework of the engine housings was in order.
Pete's Supermarine craft can be seen in greater detail at http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/thumbnails.php?album=36
Please note that the pictures uploaded in the album are not in the proper sequence.
Good luck Pete.
Lou
Nice subject for a cook-up guys. I'd definitely like to join. Perhaps at a later date.
Cliff.
Like Max's Milk, we never close.
Lou
Pete's entry in the racer cook-up is the Supermarine S6B. Very nice work Pete.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/Supermarine_6B_racer.JPG)
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-4296
Lou
Nice flag in the background!!
K Mars has presented us with a number of very interesting Air Racer models.
1/50 Scale Wittman "Chief Oshkosh"
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_Chief_Oshkosh.jpg)
1/50 Scale Caudron C860
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_Caudron-C860.jpg)
1/50 Scale Brown B-2 "Miss Los Angeles"
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/Brown_B-2.jpg)
Howard DGA-3
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_Howard_DGA-3.jpg)
Caudron C-450
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_Caudron-C450-1.jpg)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_Caudron-C450-2.jpg)
Conquest I on the bench
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_F8F-Cut2.jpg)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_F8F-Wing10.jpg)(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_mockup.jpg)
Kenji, I suggest you ask for a project board to better explain your collection of racers. They are marvelous .
Lou
Hello Lou,
I feel it to honored to invite.
I'm not good at English.
I post another photograph of my "Howard DGA-3".
This model 1/50 Scale. 1/50 Scale is general in Japan. This reason is that the metric system is used.
A golden decal is made from the thermoelectronic printer.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/Howard_DGA-3-1.jpg)
The propeller is a wooden basis.
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10253/normal_Howard_DGA-3-2.jpg)
Kenji
Kenji,
Your English is good enough for this group ;). Don't worry about it.
Welcome!
Mark
Kenji, we care about the modeller and his/her models and don't worry about the odd word that may be out of place or misspelled. If we don't understand something we will ask for clarifications. I enjoy seeing your models and hearing from another part of the world.
Lou
PS Excellent finishes on your models.
Kenji we are deeply honoured to have you here,wonderful models and thank you for sharing them with us,I have never heard of gold thermo electric printing,please tell us more,you have a really receptive audience here.
For some time now we have been admiring the beautiful models produced by your fellow countrymen,really good to see that solid modelling is alive in Japan.
Greetings from Warwick,United Kingdom.
Barry.
Lou,Mark,
Thanks.
In Japan, Solid Model was popular from the early 1950s.
Five clubs are in Japan, and a total membership is around 200 now.
I want to show the production method of the Japanese modeler.
Kenji
Kenji,
That's great. I have been studying the pictures from Osaka and Tokyo but it sure would be great to have someone explaining things to us. I, for one, will have questions along the way.
Thanks,
Ken Pugh
Barry,
Thank you very much.
The solid model of Japan imitated U.K.
The name of thermo electric printer is Alps MD-5500.
This printer can print gold, silver, white.These printers are not produced now.
The system named Piqua that changes into this printer is developed. However, I have not tried yet.
The Web site in Piqua is here. (Japanese only)
http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/piqua-1/
kenji
ken,
Thanks,
Most of Japanese modelers are shy.
I answer a question as much as possible.
kenji.
Dear Kenji the mysteries of your excellent solids explained by you are most welcome here,we understand that much internal hollowing out takes place before detail is added,this in itself is no easy task and as Ken mentions we have lots of questions along the way.
Interesting that in all of Japan as few as 200 solid modellers exist,but overall that is a measure of quality rather than massive numbers,it is good to know that the skills are still alive and above all we can share knowledge in this way.
I have never seen one of these printers they must be collectors pieces in themselves ?
Thank you again for taking the time and trouble to communicate,any help that we can give you please just ask,there is so much to learn in our wonderful hobby.
Kind regards,Barry.
Barry,
I am very glad that I can share the precious technique of many modelers on this bulletin board.
The Japanese modeler did not exchange information with the modeler of other countries. I think that there is an original technique.
A thermo electric printer was a thing for designers, but devised a technique because a modeler was made with decal.It is a few that use this printer in Japanese modelers.
Yours sincerely,kenji.
Kenji, your Howard is really a great model. Not only the model itself but also the subject.
Cliff.
Kenji I have been thinking about this thermo electric printer,the principle is the same as when they make gilt greetings cards but I think they use a rubber stamp and somehow heat the gold finish onto the surface,I wonder if this was one of the applications that the machine may have been used for ?
Barry.
Barry.
Now, Japan is very hot. Maximum temperature reached to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
A thermo electric printer , ribbon is done in the way of greeting card you said.
This Photo is decal paper and ink ribbon cartridge of gold and silver.
Decal paper is also available exclusively for this printer.
But now the technique named "PIQUA" was developed. . However, the modeler is not yet used.Only this method copies the color onto a special paper and the decal can be done.
The photograph ..below two.. is a seal made in "PIQUA".
In surprising thing, there is no base of the transparency like the decal. The person who had been working for the company of the copy originally developed this.
Kenji.
Kenji in the UK we are experiencing the most wet and windy weather ever for July and as yet no real signs of any summer.
Thank you for the very interesting images and descriptions,you have given me an idea for a future tutorial,some years ago I had to paint the company name onto a de havilland Dove aircraft in gold leaf lettering,it was something that I had not attempted before and I had to teach myself the technique required,basically I had to paint the letters first in Japan gold size,a cold setting tacky varnish,then I had to carefully hold the leaf sheets on a palette knife and literally blow them gently onto the surface as the pages of the leaf were very fragile,once everything was dry I had to remove the surplus leaf by rubbing gently with a brush against the edges,then finally hand paint the black edges to the gilt letters,the gold leaf is sold as fools gold or another name is dutch gold,genuine gold leaf as used by the old masters is very expensive and difficult to obtain.
The effect on the registration letters on your Howard Ike is very convincing,I will look out for PIQUA the system that you mention in my local craft store.
It is a good job that there are not too many aircraft that utilise gold in their registration letters,a most difficult combination to reproduce in miniature.
Barry.
Barry,
I am glad to help you.
I came to want to make Brown B2"Miss Los Angeles" when the thing that gold was able to be printed was understood. All of this racer's marking are golds.
kenji.
Ah the lovely Brown B2 ! a friend built a flying model of this lovely subject some years ago.
Once again Kenji wonderful craftsmanship,how did you simulate the ribbing on your model ? it looks very fine and delicate.
Barry.
Barry,
I simulate the ribbing by using the Ruling pen on my model.
The line of the lacquer is drawn in the wing by using the Ruling pen.
kenji.
Excellent workmanship Kenji.
Lou
Kenji I will have to get my ruling pen out and try this useful technique some time,thank you for the tip.
Barry.
K-2 of Kawanishi Aircraft Company is only and real Speed-Racer developed in Japan.
At the start of the 20's it was realized in Japan that racing planes could be of great interest, therefore the first plane in the country designed for that purpose was built by Kawanishi and designated K-2. It was to be powered by a six-inline Hall Scott rescued from another plane.
By 1921 the result of the endeavor was a very pleasing, modern –for the time- little plane of refined lines that showed promise. It was made mainly of wood and had a low cantilever wing of constant chord.
color scheme:all silver,no serial.
kenji.
Kenji,what a machine ! just look at that radiator up top,this one has to be made as a solid,thank you for the drawings.
Barry.
Barry,
I drew the illustration of K2. The position of the radiator is interesting.
kenji.
Production of tail of "Conquest I".
The aerofoil tip of the tail is cut down with the knife.
This knife can cut down the curved surface.
The aerofoil tip bonds another tree. This is because of making it to the grain that cuts down easily.
kenji.
Dear Kenji,exquisite drawing of the K2 and that oddly positioned radiator,no doubt for maximum cooling at the expense of good vision !
Your carving techniques are appreciated and very interesting,what type of wood are you using ? the grain looks very fine,these insights into your work are being absorbed and are inspirational.
Barry.
Barry,
This wood is called "HOO".
In English, it is called "Magnolia obovata".
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnolia_obovata
The wood is strong, light, and easy to work.The processing of small parts is easy.
kenji.
I need to find me a knife like that, love the long, narrow blade.
Ken Pugh
Yes Ken me too,I struggle through with a No.10 blade in a craft knife,the problem is X-Acto discontinued that blade years ago and I am getting low on stock,something like this excellent tool would be ideal.
Barry.
It's really very simple to make such tools as these. All you need is a bench grinder and a stone to hone it. One of the best honing tools is now the diamond dust hand flat some of which even come on a key ring. I have a diamond dust block which was way too expensive for a hobby item, but I had to have it for work, so a £100 "stone" was justifiable. I now use it to sharpen everything from scalpels to 2" chisels and plane irons.
My Dad always used old table knives. He'd snap them off (if they weren't already) and grind them up into whatever shape he felt comfortable with, then give them an occasional scrape on an oil stone to keep them razor sharp.
You can find old knives of fine old steel at boot fairs and Sunday Markets anywhere for pennies. Nice bone handles on them too.
My Grandad also did that to make inlay and marquetry knives for his cabinet making.
I also use a lot of Swiss files and every now and then I break one being impatient. Immediately the remaining bit gets ground and honed into a new tiny chisel, which can cut Ureol, hard wood or clean up solder. Nothing is ever wasted. Broken fine drills can be used the same way. It's all good steel and is therefore tool quality.
Cheers,
Martin
Some good tips there Motham,I built my P-38 Lightning from Ureol,there is a wood shop near me that makes staircases etc the manager has seen my models and glady lets me have offcuts,I like free !
Barry.
Barry, how did you get on with the Ureol? It's lovely stuff, but can be a bit "crispy" and edge chip I find. nonetheless I've used it on 1/20th scale Aston martins, BTCC cars and a model boat and am enjoying it so far on the Rapide model.
Perhaps we should say that Ureol is also known as CIBATool, Axson, Ebalta and Renshape and comes in many different grades from Crunchie bar to frozen Bournville!
Martin
It is ok Martin but needs special care as it can split without warning,my Short Shetland flying boat had the hull carved from Ureol and it held the crisp edges on the chine etc,it is a very heavy wood as well which has a certain feel to it,sometimes the grain can look odd and change direction rather abruptly,it takes a wood rasp well and will sand down to a sheen,I think that my stock comes under 'Frozen Bournville' and had always thought that was its characteristic until you mentioned that it comes in other grades.
I am leaning all the time with its characteristics and trying to get the best from it for my purpose.
Barry.
Barry,
we're talking at cross purposes here, I think. Ureol is a modelling board, epoxy I believe. I first saw and used it in Germany when I was making prototype cars at VW. Is there a wood called Ureol too? That would be an amazing coincidence. In America it's known almost universally as Renshape. These days patternmakers use it instead of mahogany or Jelutong. Certainly the darkest one looks like Pear, which is my favourite wood for fine carving.
I have enough pear to do my occasional 1/48th scale model boats or any aircraft I want to do for me in the future. I believe some call it Swiss Pear.
I could send you a bit to try if you like.
Cheers,
Martin
Ah synthetic wood ! yes I have a few bits in my specials bin,it is very good for carving small items like wheel spats etc,yes the Ureol I use is a wood,what a co-incidence ? they use it in the ornate staircase industry.
I can see now why you use it because it has no grain or anything,how do they produce it so air bubble free as well ?
I have had my offcuts for years and treasure it because I do not know where to get any more of it,I have some Jelutong as well from the days when I would visit pattern makers and sweep their floor for the spoils,very few pattern shops exist around here now (Warwick )
Barry.
Barry, that was weird! I'm doing the Rapide entirely in "synthetic wood", but the dust is a problem and I may yet go back to pearwood, so I can chisel it, not file or sand, because wood dust can be dangerous too. It's started making me itch, since I put three oak trees in our old canal boat during her restoration.
I assume when the synthetic stuff is made it's done in a vacuum de-gassing tank.
I don't rate Jelutong as highly as many. It can be unstable in large chunks. Odd for a patternmaker's wood. My boss at Toyota was a youngish Brummie patternmaker and he was obsessed with jelutong.
He told me to draw some out of the stores and it was twisted like a big propellor. Quite unsuitable for the job required. I had to leave most of it on the workshop floor in trying to straighten the plank.
I also worked with a lad in Germany who reckoned he was the last time-served patternmaker in the Midlands. But he was on £16 an hour in England, so he was happy enough.
Cheers,
Martin
I understand that dust from synthetic wood is bad for you,and there was a school scare about Jelutong dust as well and they reverted to Basswood,some woods are poison to some people and can make you come out in a rash,what about those old shipwrights and the amount of wood they used cut with large drawblades,wonderful craftsmanship.
Barry.
I think dust, generally, is bad for you. Mahogany is carcinogenic apparently and think how much of that the boatbuilders and cabinet makers must have imbibed. My grandfather was a cabinet maker but he always cut with scrapers, never used sand paper, saying wood should always be cut, never scratched.
I get a scratchy rash with oak, which came on after I restored our old canal boat.
I once worked at Thorp Modelmakers in London and we made a 1/500th scale model of Cardiff!! We used Mansonia, a purple hard wood that we only discovered after the model was made had barbed dust. Breath it in, it don't come back up!
Just be careful.
Kenji,
I PM-d you about making decals (transfers).
I look forward to your reply.
regards,
Martin
The latest addition to Air Racers is Flying S BeeGee racer.
Harvey made an excellent Hall Bulldog Racer.
Lou
(http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/Gallery/albums/userpics/10004/normal_Hall_s_Bulldog_Racer_Harvey.jpg)