Started work on 1/72 Bristol Blenheim. I was undecided aboute how to finish it off but stumbled across a book on Australians in the Battle of Britain.
So it will be a Mk1f from 600 squadron RAF.
At a model show I picked up a Vac form canopy and turret ( cheap as chips) for a blenheim along with a few others.
Pictures etc as it matures.
Cheers
Gordon
The Blenheim Mk I is also on my to do list. Awaiting your photos.
Lou
Progress so far . Looks a bit rough but it sort of ,kind of looks like a Blenheim .
Work still needed on nacelles, cowls and cockpit.
Cheers
Gordon
Definitely a Blenheim. My model building lives through your progress reports. Keep them coming.
Lou
What wood are you using?
Lou
It's all Balsa except the fin/rudder is 3 ply and the stabiliser is basswood.
Gordon
Thanks. I thought so because of the grain in the enlarged photo. I have a few blocks in my stash but shutter at filling the grain.
Lou
Have you a way to duplicate the blisters on the nacelles. I was thinking of glue drops but wonder how to get them all the same.
Lou
I have not had to make many duplicated parts such as the blisters on a cowl. But I do try to come up with solutions. I would try making a mold from silicone using a prototype carved plug and making multiple impressions in the mold. I have experimented with making silicone molds using silicon caulking + cornstarch + food dye. It works!
First, the silicone caulk must be the all silicone composition, not the latex type. Also it should have the note on the tube that it releases acetic acid (vinegar) as it cures. Open the tube up and if you have a very strong whiff of vinegar, you've got the right stuff.
Put a blob of silicone into a plastic container such as a chip dip container. Add a few drops of food colouring to the silicone. Now start adding the cornstarch to the mixture and start stirring it in. Keep mixing and adding starch until you get an even coloured mix about the consistency of pie dough. It takes perhaps 2:1 starch to silicon by volume. It should be fully incorporated and you will be able to handle the "dough" without it sticking to your hands. Roll it out to a consistent thickness and start making impressions with the previously carved plug (mounted on a stick for a handle).
Let the mold cure. It will probably get fairly stiff in a couple hours and will be like a silicon slab overnight. It is amazing that it does cure completely through. A blob of silicone alone without the starch and color will Be a skinned over blob next day.
Once it is cured, you could use whatever casting material you have on hand.since the blisters would be fairly small, PVA glue could work as the casting medium. Let it cure and pop them out to trim them.
I did use this method to make a cast of a wrench that I was able to cut open and extract the wrench leaving a perfect casting mold as a test. There are various methods and mixtures on line using water, paint thinner etc. I just used silicone ,starch and food dye.
On my to-do list is to use this casting method to make a resin engine from a wooden plug.
Regards,
Fraser
Fraser,
I like your suggestions.
I might try it on a few other bits of airframe etc.., Look forward to your experiment with the engine.
Lou, One of Barry's projects involved blisters on a cowl . Done with PVA and maybe a mix of something he used template and dabbed it on. It will be in his projects somewhere.
Cheers
Gordon
Thank you Gordon.
Lou
Fraser, thank you for that method for making a mold. I have experimented with using silicone that way, but never thought of using it for a mold.
I have done some molds in the past using modeling clay or plaster. Neither of these was a great solution, and the modeling clay only works for one casting.
I've used epoxy to make parts before. I have some larger epoxy bottles from woodworking and this type worked well -- it has low viscosity so fills in all the details. You do have to be careful to get all the bubbles out before you pour, I found.
Do you know if the silicone could handle the high temperatures of a low-melting point alloy? I'm thinking non-lead plumbing solder, which is mostly tin with a little antimony, I think is the alloy.
Garet
Hello Garet,
I've not tried Solder as a casting medium. .
Looking at the melting points of solder from kester.com it appears lead free solder has a melting range of 423-464f . Looking at an ikea high-temp silicon muffin mold it is safe up to 480f.
However looking at the MSDS for "LePage 2 in 1 Seal and Bond Kitchen and Bath Express Silicone" on line, it recommends avoiding prolonged heating to greater than 300f due to possible formation of formaldehydes. It does not state whether it is an uncured or cured silicon.
Additionally the mixing in of cornstarch would probably affect the temperature resistance and stability of the cured product.
So, I would think that it is a good mold material for resin or other cold casting material but it would probably not stand up to the temperatures of molten solder.
Regards,
Fraser
I have been busy with some other things . Managed to get some time on the Blenheim.
I wasn't happy with the engines so cut out a new pair out of block. The two brass tubes with a cutting edge filed onto them were used to shape the nacelles .
The large one is the right diameter for the cowling and the smaller one is right for inner diameter of cowling. The large one also makes a good hand hold for shaping.
Had to modify the tailplane shape and size . Still have to do the cockpit shaping .
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks for the tip on making the nacelles. It is always a challenge to get them round.
Lou
Engines are still separate decided to do everthing needed before attaching to the rest of it.
Getting the cockpit shape right before cutting it off to put the vac form one on.
Cheers
Gordon
Blisters done with polyfiller mixed with a bit of PVA and acrylic paint( so I can see what it is doing).
Cowlings cleaned out with rotary tool and using the same mix as above cylinders put in,
Exhausts from garden wire.
Cheers
Gordon
I like what I see. I never thought of vacuuming the front end. With all that glass it will be spectacular.
Lou
Spent yesterday shaping the nose to match the the vac form canopy.
Moment of truth will occur shortly after a final eyeball of lines etc... The turret fits. Just have to work out how to fill it up.
Cheers
Gordon
Looking forward to the vacuum form glass front.
Lou
Progress so far.
The trick with vac form is slow and steady and check. ( thank you Youtube).
Not to bad so far . I've got an old airfix Blenheim MkIV somewhere so I'll dig that out and get some seat sizes etc.
If this works out I've got a set to suit a 1/72 Whitley which may come later down the track.
The blue tac in the picture helps with holding the shape and also aids in finding it if I drop it.
Cheers
Gordon
Canopy framing looks great.
Lou
What Is the material used? Looking good and it's going to add a new dimension to the model.
Fraser
Blue Tac removed from upper canopy part . The lower part still has blu tac on it so I can't lose it.
The VAC FORM is from a few sets I picked up at a model show swap and sell for a few dollars.
They would be from Falcon Clearvac set number 8 RAF Bombers- I also have the 1/72 Whitley set.
Pretty happy with it all so far. Need to thin the fuselage walls down a bit. The white filler is just to blend it a bit better to the fuselage.
Any clues on removing minor scratches would be appreciated.
Now all I have to do is make up some cockpit and turret furniture.
Cheers
Gordon
Great work Gordon. I will have to get off my butt and start doing a bit more than the ID model.
Lou
To remove scratches try toothpaste as a rubbing compound. A good friend I have once had to blend out a nasty scratch in the canopy of a full size Pitts Special. It took some time but the scratch disappeared!
Fraser
Scratches have been reduced using Frasers toothpaste recommendation.
I added a small amount of Gumption ( a kitchen cleaning paste) which worked OK . It is abrasive so care is needed.
Cleaned up the cockpit area and have given it a coat of green ( its the closest I have available to interior green).
Currently working on seat, propellers etc..,
I am pondering whether to make up the undercarriage or leave it up.
Pictures to follow.
Cheers
Gordon
What has been achieved so far.
Used various thicknesses of plastic sheet. Have had to make a few guesses.
There is a couple of fold up round seats to go in yet . I've done them out of plastic and have cut them out using a home made hole cutter ( brass tube )
Looking at the picture a bit more cleaning up is required.
Pondering whether to do the undercarriage down or up.
Cheers
Gordon
Details looking great in the cockpit. Love the control wheel. Landing gear has always fascinated me; i'd Go for gear down.
Fraser
Awesome cockpit details. Also, your cowling blisters turn out much better than mine. I will have to up my game.
Lou
I am leaning towards gear down . Thanks Fraser.
I found the airfix Blenheim MkIV kit I had . It was sealed (got it years ago) . Opened it up and some of the sprues are missing.
No cockpit floor seat or pilot and no wheels . The propellers seem a bit large.
I'll stick bits and pieces in a bits box for later and junk the rest.
I'll work out the Observers round seat and paint it up and leave it at that. I think I will leave modifying the 1/72 British Infantry Zulu War into aircrew till another time.
So I'll make up a set of U/c legs and turn up up /make up some wheels.
Then to the turret.
You do quality work Lou.
Pictures to follow
cheers
Gordon
Cockpit progress . Nothing is glued yet.
The small item in front of the cockpit is the observers seat which folds up on starboard side.
The overhead shot shows the arrangement.
Dry fitting and thinking things through is a good idea . In order to glue the observers seat in I will have to attach the wing first.
Started on turret and undercarriage
Cheers
Gordon
Looks great Gordon.
Lou
Thanks Lou,
Pushing on slowly. Adding all the extras adds a bit more time before its completed.
Still small challenges are good for the mind they reckon.
Cheers
Gordon
Pushing along when time permits.
There are two small windows to the near of the canopy . What I've done with these is fill them with PVA.
Seems to work .
Sorting bits for the undercarriage.
Gordon
I've managed to sort some furniture out for the turret.
The Vickers K gun is from brass tube, copper wire and a match stick. The magazine is a small disc of plastic sheet cut out using sharpened brass tube.
The two small windows I spoke about before are behind the cockpit near the tape.
On to the undercarriage next.
Cheers
Gordon
Enjoying the progress! Keep the pictures and info coming. Thanks.
Fraser
Undercarriage started .
Aluminium tube and brass rod and tube. Cover is styrene sheet. Curved shape molded round a suitable sized brass tube . taped and plunged into near boiling water and then cooled . Seemed to work OK.
Nothing glued yet. Wheels from a ply disc and balsa cut with a sharpened brass tube.
Cheers
Gordon
Undercarriage looks great.
Lou
Bristol certainly had a different idea on the configuration of the gear doors! They must have had an immediate effect on the airspeed when extended???? Very interesting modeling of the gear..
Regards
Fraser
That was the case . A few years ago there was and RC plan around . Had retracts and when lowered did act as speed brakes.
Turret finished but not glued in place. Cockpit finished . Canopy still requires a bit more work. Undercarriage is done but not glued in place.
I will use the tail wheel , antenna and venturi from the kit. Might also use the breather intakes on the engines as well.
Thinking about the Landing , nav and formation lights.
Cheers
Gordon
I've done the decals . Finally managed to get a good print for the roundels . I'll seal them today and see what tomorrow brings.
Cheers
Gordon
Cockpit done. Propellers cleaned up. decals being applied. The clear squadron codes wouldn't settle down had to use some micro sol. Still need to touch up further with paint.
I haven't stuck the undercarriage as yet. I'll leave that till I stop having to wave it around.
Cheers
Gordon
The visible cockpit really sets it off. Nicely done Gordon.
Lou
Thanks Lou,
Well its finished. I've decided not to do the landing,formation ,nav lights and the aerial.
I've used the tailwheel, venturi and mast from the kit.
Cheers
Gordon
Great job Gordon. The glass front makes the model stand out. Congratulations.
Lou
I enjoyed watching the process of your build. Excellent work.
Thanks Fraser
Thanks Lou and Fraser
Gordon