There were a couple of questions about some of the techniques used on this model so I decided to do a walkthrough of the build. Be warned, this is not a solid model. If you don't like "hollow" models, please hide your eyes. Some of the techniques can be used on pure solid models.
This was my first attempt at scratchbuilding. Gera Godoy had a forum for this type of model and ran a tutorial which I participated in. I was hooked and haven't look back.
For beginners, I can't stress enough just doing it. Don't jump on something difficult. Build something simple and finish it. You can finish it quickly and build something else. Build through several models quickly and apply lessons learned from the previous build. You will find that scratchbuilding is easy and fun. You will develop the techniques that suit you and can then tackle longer projects without giving up on them.
Ken Pugh
Ken, how did you get from the toothpick to the completed cylinder on your engine? I keep away from exposed engines due to an inability to make them look good.
Even though your Fleet is hollow Ken, We do consider it a Solid because it was carved from solid wood. Hollowed out cabins and passenger compartments etc... are considered advanced techniques and looked forward too. No worries. . . ;D
Posting has been delayed due to my disability acting up worse than usual. I will cover some of the techniques of the Fleet instead of a full build log. Again, this is not a solid model because it was built as a box of balsa, a wood I'll never use again, if possible. Everything that went outside of the box pertains to solid modelers.
Again, this was my first scratchbuild under the tutelage of Gera. Lots of lessons learned on this one as on all of them.
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This first pic shows the simulation of the fuselage stringers. I used the ever faithful bamboo pulled through the lousy drawplate I have. Can't wait to get a good one. It helps to sand down the back of the stringers for a better glue joint.
Note the use of a push pin to hold onto this thing.
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This pic shows the fuselage detail well. The metal cockpit covering is made from 3x5 card. The turtledeck stringers are metal wire. This wire looks like it was meant for magnet or transformer use because it has no insulation but it does have a coating. Keep fiddling with it using needle nose pliers and you'll eventually get it straight enough to use.
The side bamboo stringers have been sanded down some. The whole fuselage has wood sealer applied. I use the stuff from Minwax.
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Nothing simulates fabric coverings better than fabric. I used techniques borrowed from the free-flight rubber guys. The tissue is left over from a Guillow's kit. I've tried the stuff for wrapping you can get cheap, but it dissolves in water, which just will not work. Too bad, that stuff is cheap and plentiful. I also have some silkspan but I save it for the good models. That stuff is great wet and forms around curves well. I also use it to make sails for my boat models. Anyways, the tissue is applied with glue stick. I use the purple stuff to see where the glue is. This stuff dries clear. The body has a coat of primer applied. I used some stuff I got from Model Expo. Their paint is thick as mud because it is meant to thin as the application requires. There paint goes a long ways. When brushed, I use it pretty thick.
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The fuselage is covered and the tissue needs to be sealed. I, again, use the Minwax Sanding Sealer. Sanding sealer is really cheap stuff, especially compared to polyurethane. It seals the tissue well, but is too heavy for flying. The free-flight guys seal the tissue with Krylon Crystal Clear in a spray can. It is an acrylic and does not dry to a water-proof finish, so the free-flight guys try not to fly in damp conditions with that stuff.
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After a coat of primer, you see the fabric finish comes out well.
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The nose block is on and shaped. I used spackle for filler, which I will no longer use. There is too much water in spackle and it will warp wood that is not sealed well. That will not happen on such a small model, but it was a big problem with the monster Hellcat I'm working on.
The headrest is a block of wood glued to the turtledeck. Notice that it is clamped down with a brash nail. This was later removed after the glue dried. You cabinet makers know all about using nails as clamps while glue dries. The model ship guys use these small brass brads that are usually left over from one of their kits. They are removed after the glue dries and the hole filled. I sometimes forget this method of making parts. It is usually easier to glue on wood and shape, rather than shape a tiny part then glue on. It is also easier to make small parts while still connected to the piece of wood instead of cutting of the proper size piece and trying to hold that stupid thing while you are working on it.
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OK, Lou, engine time! I find the hardest part of radial or rotary engines is the spacing. The cylinders are usually odd in number and a pain to plot out properly. In this case I first drew in the line showing their alignment on the nose. As there are only five cylinders, I just used the front view of the plans to get their spacing. I punched holes with a sharp object and used toothpicks in the holes to check alignment. Just poke a little at a time, that way you can adjust the angle as you go deeper.
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The holes are aligned so now it is time for the cylinders. The previous toothpicks were square and these are round. I cut them down to get rid of the tapered part of the toothpick and glued them in place. I used this glue because it is tinted and I hate using it. Since it is getting painted, it's tint is not an issue.
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The cooling ribs are made with the same insulation free wire. If you don't have any, just strip off the insulation of regular solid core wire. Wrap it around and glue in place. The pushrods are made from wire that is insulated. It's the stuff used for wire-wrapping. Again, solid core will work just fine. The main thing here is that it is thicker than the rib wire. The heads are made from wood. Glue on a block then shape.
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One each engine. Acrylic paint does not stick too well to metal so get it covered then apply some kind of clear finish to protect it. If you use aluminum wire, the paint rubbing off looks good. Otherwise, you might like to dry-brush with some metallic paint to give it the metal look, even though the real thing, hopefully, does not have paint flaking off it. At this small scale, you don't need much detail. The bigger it is, the more you need to put on it.
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Time for the markings. This is covered in the Markings and Decals section under the Tissue Decal topic.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=105.0
Basically, the markings are printed on tissue paper, the same stuff for rubber airplanes. Practice on paper until all is well, then use glue stick to attach tissue, at the edges, to a paper carrier.
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Since you can't print white on tissue, just paint a white background. The decals are applied with glue stick. They are not always opaque, but that is not a problem. Using the decal as a guide, you can paint in the detail, kind of like paint-by-numbers. Markings are tough to paint free-hand but are much easier if you have it layed out already.
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The struts are made from bamboo. Just sand those skewers that are nice and cheap to get the proper cross-section. Scrap wire is used for the cross struts and the tail skid.
The fuselage has been painted with acrylic paints and the fabric detail is still visible.
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I made a temporary jig on my building board to get the bottom wing lined up. The wings are shaped from solid wood then a rat tail file was used to cut the scallop between the ribs. In reality, the fabric of a wing is rarely this scalloped. Now I make a solid wing, then lay on strips of cardstock for the ribs then cover with tissue/silkspan. Look at my Sopwith Pup in my gallery to see the results of this technique.
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Looks more to scale.
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I use the plastic they use instead of boxes today for the windscreens. Make a template from cardstock and, after everything is the proper shape and fit, use the template to cut the windscreen from plastic. This clear plastic is the only plastic I use in models. Plastic decays over time so I stick with wood. I know some of you guys swear that plastic is not a problem to use, but the guidelines for models for the Naval Academy forbids plastic except the clear needed for windows. I'll stick with what they say because they have the research to back it up. Of all the plastics you can use, styrene is especially bad. I just don't like it. Paper is better than plastic to me. I can seal it with sealer or CA glue and it works fine.
The strut attachment points are cut into the fuselage. The side view of the plan is used to locate them and their alignment viewed from top I just eye-balled.
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All the struts are bamboo. Strong stuff that doesn't warp. The red stripes on the tail are from some rub-on decals I have. I won't use them again because they are just too delicate. I'd rather take the time to mask out and paint. I pain, but worth it.
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All done. On the bottom view, notice that you can get some silvering between the letters caused by the tissue not sticking completely. This is easily removed with the wing paint. You can also get rid of any ink bleed this way. Again, paint-by-numbers.
On this and the Sopwith Pup, I've used music wire for all the rigging wires. I don't like using any flexible because it is tough to get tight. With nice, hard, music wire, everything is straight. My local Ace Hardware store sells it. I must be the only person buying it because they asked me what I did with it and were surprised when I told them. When I am wandering around that store they like to find out what strange use I will have for what I find. I love small, husband and wife stores.
There it is, my first scratchbuild. It was a lot of fun and a great learning experience. I no longer have a desire to build plastic kits (puzzles) thanks to Gera's teaching. Once he got me over the initial hurdle, I'm off on my own, developing my techniques as I go. What a great way to build models. Cheap, too!
Awesome build. Thanks for sharing. I most try the tissue over cardstock for rib details because i can't seem to do well in that area.
I'll look through my Pup build pics and write up something in one of the techniques sections. It all depends on what one's perception of how a canvas and rib wing looks. When I looked at a real plane at an airshow, it dawned on me that the ribs were close enough that there was not heavy scalloping of the fabric, which makes sense. The structure has to be strong and must efficiently produce lift. After all, it's not an RC or rubber airplane.
But, that's just like panel line detail with plastic modelers. Those guys go crazy with deep grooves and heavy paint to accentuate the unrealistic grooves. Looks kind of stupid to me but I build for me, not for them. I also don't get too excited about including every decal and marking on a plane. You can't see the ground crew information unless you are standing up against the thing. When it pops up in a picture in flight or on the ground, then I'll worry about showing it on the model.
I'll put something in the Detailing section when I gather the pics.
Ken Pugh
Very nice job, Ken.
I still feel that there's an infinite number of problems involved when making models of older fabric covered aircraft. I'm sure your techniques will be of value. Look forward to being able to check them out.
Cliff.
I am trying out your rib/fabric using two layers of masking tape, tissue and puzzle glue as I don't have any dope. I have used dope on many flying models long ago but have not tried lately. I will post my results hopefully by week's end. The good weather is causing work slowdowns in my shipyard and airplane factory.
I made a topic in the Detailing section, called Canvas wings, to show the technique used on the Pup. The Fleet wings were the traditional filed in grooves, but my Pup is the new technique.
http://smm.solidmodelmemories.net/SMF/index.php?topic=141.0
Ken Pugh
Seems like we north east fleet are the most active on this forum. Any idea about this facebook group, when its being created or anything?
We have no plans for a Facebook Group.
Kipcew, I think what Ken was referring to is a yahoo group that focused on scratchbuilding. Except for my posting pictures, it is pretty quiet these days but has some tutorial type post. You must join it, but it is easy to do and cost nothing. Here is the web address.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Learning-to-scratch-build-models/
Lou