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I.D. Models

Started by Jim, December 28, 2010, 04:23:12 PM

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lastvautour

Doing inlays with narrow strips would be challenging to say the least and completely out of my league. As you may have notices, I use lots of paint to hide the putty I require to join any two pieces together. Mind you, should you ever come up with a workable solution, I would be very happy to learn new skills.

Lou 

Balsabasher

Quote from: Fingers on January 06, 2011, 06:12:10 PM
I'm afraid you've lost me completely now...

OK lets explain from the base of the canopy working upwards-
1/First a piece of white wood indicating glazing area for the bottom part of the canopy.
2/ As soon as the first frame line is reached lay in a thin piece of darker coloured marquetry wood.
3/ On top of this add another piece of white wood to the top of the canopy where it finishes.
4/ Now tackle the front windscreen in the same way except ie the vertical portion that slopes back slightly.
5/ Add a piece of thin darker membrane.
6/ Finally on the front add another piece of white stock wood,in other words wherever there is a frame line just insert the marquetry wood until everything is glued up and ready for the final sanding.
Basically the canopy is made up in small sections a piece at a time,fiddly but once done you automatically have the frame lines no matter how you carve you wood.

I could probably make one quicker than trying to explain,just think of layering wood with different colours and using the frame lines and angles as the breaking points for inserting the thin membranes ie the marquetry wood.

Barry.

lastvautour

A mock up with picture would be beneficial Barry.

lou

Jim

Barry:

"Aha! I see," said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw... ;)

I think I get you now. You're saying, essentially, block up the canopy separate from the fuselage, using small blocks and strips of different colored wood to represent the glass panels and canopy frames. Then fit it into the fuselage in the appropriate spot, and carve and sand to shape.

That'd work, all right, but only if there weren't any laminated stripes running through the canopy. It would work on the Grumman, for example, but not on the P-40, the Corsair or the B-24...
And so it goes...

Balsabasher

Quote from: lastvautour on January 07, 2011, 01:26:24 AM
A mock up with picture would be beneficial Barry.

lou


Yes I agree,just very busy here at the moment Lou.
Barry.

Balsabasher

Quote from: Fingers on January 07, 2011, 03:45:46 AM
Barry:

"Aha! I see," said the blind man as he picked up his hammer and saw... ;)

I think I get you now. You're saying, essentially, block up the canopy separate from the fuselage, using small blocks and strips of different colored wood to represent the glass panels and canopy frames. Then fit it into the fuselage in the appropriate spot, and carve and sand to shape.

That'd work, all right, but only if there weren't any laminated stripes running through the canopy. It would work on the Grumman, for example, but not on the P-40, the Corsair or the B-24...


For those intricate types you could file slots into the base wood of a carved canopy with a Swiss file,then add water soaked strips of coloured wood into those binding tight with insulating tape,when dry remove/trim and glue into place,or thick thread would look good as well.
Barry.

Jim

And so it goes...

lastvautour

Just an assumption as I do it sometimes. Water soaked wood will compress better and will expand tightly in the groove/slot you have created. Right now I am soaking strips to make the bead on the Harvard wing joint. They will bend better and hopefully not crack when attached to the wing.

Lou

Balsabasher

Spot on Lou,you beat me to the explanation,works really well.
Barry.

Jim

Ahhh, I get it...Thanks, Lou. You've just taught me something I may be able to put to use down the road a piece...
And so it goes...